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This was supposed to be a pre production sample before making the chassis available. It features the refinements in design learned from the prototypes. This car will ultimately get one of Jakes alloy chassis.

I have all the parts to assemble a NIX10M except for the donor car itself. I originally planned to race this car quite extensively, but not sure how quick or slow this thread will progress as I have other non-RC priorities at the moment.

I ended up ordering my worlds car to finish this, hopefully it won't take too long to get here.

I really wanted to use the white battery cups as they are so iconic to the RC10, however, as I only have saddle packs I went with the B44 lipo cradle instead. I personally feel that the saddle pack configuration is the best for low grip surfaces.

Not much else I can do untill I get the car to complete it.


Sorry for the fuzzy photo, for some reason when I upload them it wipes the picture quality.

Looks beautiful! Following this thread

The last piece of the puzzle for now....

I started to build up a race prepped NIX10M. The rear bulkhead had the battery cup portion trimmed off and the toe blocks were mounted with low profile locknuts to keep them tight. RC10's always seemed to suffer from these coming loose.

Not that this is required for a NIX10M (unless you don't have a #6565 case), but I modded a stock worlds case to be used in mid mount. I tried both the worlds #6564 and standard #6565 in the prototype and the worlds case was better. The #6565 was a bit too sloppy for my liking after a few race meetings compared to the #6564, it ended up being tighter and smoother once broken in believe it or not. I think this is partly due to the tighter tolerences of a new mold. I trimmed the motor plate, cut down the transmission posts and used Avid motor centering screws.

NIX10M is getting a pretty heavy duty slipper - a VTS conversion with high torque pad, an extra plate and an extra pad. I also opted for an 84 tooth spur gear to run modified. The 84 is the largest that will fit under the gear cover. I will likely run between a boosted 8.5T and 6.5T

Transmission mounted snugly in the car with cut down body post. Inline steering bellcranks and body post also mounted

Hi RJ,

Starting to come together nicely,

keep up the good work.

Cheers, Dave.

Too many cool options to choose from, quadra car would probably be the best handling version. Since I wanted the standard buggy nose I got the ROAR width arms for it as an option.

The total width of the buggy can be changed in 5 minutes.

I like this. A LOT. If I had the funds I would build this. The colors are spot on too. The only thing that looks a little off is the round motor cover/brace. I know it's round due to the motor, but it just seems out of place with everything else either being flat of hard edged. Maybe if it was black it would kind of "hide" it a little?

Curious though, what came in a Worlds kit that you couldn't buy online? Seems every last bit is available for those cars. Nevermind, I see what some of the parts are. But most people wouldn't be able to afford to buy a Worlds car to finish this project.

Looks good RJ! I've thought about using the quadra setup, but I ended up with a B5M instead. I tend to break a lot of shit running on a track designed for both 1/8 and 1/10 scale. Now I can compare the old with the new, so to speak.

What about narrowing the width to use a truck front end, to have equal arms front to rear. If you're going this far, I think that's something that really *needs* to be done. If you're planning on racing, you really need the long front arms. Plus, I think most guys would want a max-Roar-width car, I know I would, using B4 wheels.

If that were to happen, and I had the money, I'd buy it with a shorty pack setup. I think that would be the best of new and old. Since people like me have a plethora of old parts, and the knowledge for the old cars, working on it and knowing what we're doing, would already be there. There's no real fundamentally different thing to learn, unlike buying a B5M.

Maybe you could sell these as a package deal, like this:

1) Only the graphite parts shown in that one pic.
2) Semi complete like that last pic, your choice of battery setup, with regular nose.
3) Semi complete like the last pic, your choice of battery setup, with truck nose.

I swear if I had the money I'd buy #3.


Don't forget this This battery placement just about lines up with how I run my B4 and RC10T buggy, the shorty packs are at the front, with the foam blocks at the back. I don't know why guys use the huge brick packs, since my shorties seem to last forever.




But yeh, I still think that curved motor guard needs to be black, it would flow with the graphite top brace a lot better. of if that type of printed plastic holds paint well, we could just paint it.

Thanks Anthony, your brave running an RC10 on a track designed for 1/8 Bent nose plates come to mind.

Yellowdatsun - Nothing comes in the worlds kit that you can't buy, all you need to build a NIX10M is any stealth car, Niki's shapeway parts and Jakes chassis kit. I just chose to build this up new with a few trick goodies.

You can run a truck nose with even wider arms, Jake is making 3 different versions of the chassis. You can use 3 different battery configurations with each and 2 different steering set ups.

So the chassis itself is already pre-drilled with the different battery setup holes? You just need to specify the right top piece to cover the battery?

So when if comes to builds like this, there should be some sort of "parts list", stickied somewhere, that says

1) You need this from Shapeways,
2) this from this guy (add contact info),
3) and then this from this other guy (add contact info).
4) Then the front arms from this model,
5) and back arms from this model,
5) the rest is factory RC10 stuff.


Maybe those who are building custom cars, and also who want to make it available to the public for others to build, could create some kind of build sheet? This way, next year when I can finally get to it, I;'m not digging through all kinds of threads to try and find out what I need, only to find there's a couple pieces someone forgot to mention. UIdeas?

Here's a good comparison of standard worlds arms and NIX wide arms.