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GT2, Mamba Monster 6s ESC + Castle 2650Kv 1512 can. 32 pitch gears, 5mm, 24T Pinion, 54T spur. I can't believe it fits. I'm not even sure if I should run it once. Probably explode the transmission



I zip tie to get 3s. How am I supposed to get 4 saddles on there? Lol

Anyone want to check my math? LOL

I picked a Slash spur because Slash uses the same pitch as the GT2 and that was the only 54T/32P I saw on the list. Current draw I calculated from castles quoted 3000 watt draw at 16.8v 4s.




Edited for tires

video?

Theoretical.

But I will be looking into tires and body mods now stay tuned you may just get your video

Film it carefully...it may only happen once...

With that kind of speed, totally disregarding your gearing and timing question, I'm wondering what your plans are to get sufficient downforce to keep it somewhat controllable. If you're just slapping that power into a buggy and gonna hit the road, I sure wouldn't want to be anywhere down the street from you...

I got similar numbers on one of my builds, but finding a place to properly test that is the issue

with a 48p you can barely fit a 47/69 gearing. I chose to do a 3800kv motor on 3S. Its just a constant state of peeling out when I had it on foam tires.

I'd crank that diff tight. You'll melt it with ease. I was on a much smaller motor and smaller tires and still destroyed a diff on its first power outing.

dhawk aluminum diff gear holds up really well.

Nice! DO IT! I'm in the same boat! lol. I've gotten past keeping the front end down (for now) - and have been dealing with tires. I blew the idler in my stealth at 69mph in my OIN build. It's now an all metal trans! haha. My vintage A&L belt driven setup in the other car has seen 72 - so far so good. As mentioned keeping tires on have been my biggest problem!

Next time out I'll be testing yet another tire setup. I'm looking to go 4s too and looking to be somewhere in the 80's!

Good luck!

R Cane wrote:Film it carefully...it may only happen once...

Wish I read the thread before testing it, it's just that I was loosing light and wanted to run it one time.

Melted my first RC differential ever...on only 3s...running a straight line.

Here is a teaser




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=636QmNRVdwc

Looks like a bad science experiment, ready to go off at any minute, haha!

My traxxas Slash 4x4 is *highly* upgraded in all aspects, but for power it runs a Momba Max Pro esc and a 2400kv Castle 550 can 4 pole motor. It has torque for days, the motor consistently loosens it's mounting bolts, and I have to loctite them in. It's a big monster brute of a Short Course truck, locals call it the "the red missle". I've had to put on an unusually high pinion gear top get top speed out of it. The motor never gets hot. It's never even breaking a sweat. It will do 4 wheel burnouts and stay within it's own diameter, which is hard to do with 4wd without extreme power, and I'd swear the tires were smoking on my rougher driveway. Has the torque to clear triples even when you hit the gas just prior to the base of the jump, no run-up needed. I could still gear it higher for more top speed, but the pinion would start looking really stupid, like a high speed run car. But the torque, man, good greif, the torque, that's where it's at. All this on 2s. On 3 s it would be downright scary, and probably could compete in a high speed run if my pinion was the same size as the spur, haha!


Anyways, back to your truck. it *should* be ok, but when you do such a massive power increase like I did, things happen that you don't expect. I never had to adjust my factory Traxxas slipper until I got this setup, and I had to crank it way down to stop the slipping. Being 4wd and having gear diffs, I don't have nearly the issues of a 2wd with a ball diff. ALL your power is going down that small tranny that was never intended for such abominable amounts of power. If you keep blowing diffs, you may want to try it locked, it's not such a bad thing in the dirt. On clay it will hinder you, but in dirt it will be more predictable. My new Axial Trophy truck has a locked rear axle, and works fine on any surface other than slow asphalt and cement surfaces. You should carry a few extra spur gears and a set of internal transmission gears. depending on what tranny, you could go all-metal inside. I was able to do that for my OG RC10 to handle the Lipo and Castle setup.

Also, for the gears, good choice, the larger pitch Traxxas style stuff is rugged. I have only once striped one of their spur gears. Solid setup for high power.

Haha thanks.

It is an experiment that's for sure. All I really wanted was the 6s ESC. This will allow me to run a high discharge 3s on a 1/10 can motor all day. I was tired of frying ESCs when running sand paddles. The 15 can motor just happen to fit. Almost all associated stealth type transmissions use the same gears. Only the top shaft and outer cases are different. This means the GT/T2,3,4/SC10 for the most part all use the same internals. The GT2 uses the same top shaft and diff but the strange 2 gear idler it has reduces the final drive to 4.09.

I should have known better then to leave the diff open. It's fixed now. A little tweaking and I'll make some videos. This isn't my first time modifying RC10s. I know what the stealth transmissions can handle and as long as your bearings are new, everything is lubed, and the diff is locked then it will take the 2650kv 15 can on 4s all day. Just don't get stupid with the trigger finger hehe

Here was my old slash 4x4 platinum.
[IMG]http://i253.photobucket.com/albums/hh59/edirtysicks_photos/Glamis/IMG_0533.jpg[/IMG]

Well i tried 5 times to post this link^


Call me old school, but 4x4 brushless is "unrealistic". I got 500 for that beast after many a bash sessions.