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Scorpion trailing arms

Belt conversion for Stinger (Very Heavy Duty compared to the Optima conversion)

Plan is to find some telescopic driveshafts for the rear.

Cool!. Question for you Dennis. Are you making your cages yourself with tubing bender? I want to have a near stock looking Ultima, but have not yet tried to make a cage.

Thanks -

I use solid T6 6061 6mm alu rods - they bend well mounted in the bench vise (no flattening)
If I were to use tube, I´d use tubing bender, as You suggest, and a softer alloy.

Lars (HCP22) has a very detailed build thread on here, called "Blueprint Scorpion", where he explains how he built his cage from aluminum tubing - It´s worth a look.

I saw a original cage on the "bay" not too long ago - pricey but still cheaper if You compare it with the hours spent.
But If You want a custom cage - then it´s just to start bending away

If It where me trying to replicate the Ultima cage, I´d go for TIG and Stainless steel 6mm Hydraulic pipe.

Now I see why you were trying to get me to use scorpion trailing arms on the MX834

For the sliding axles , you could try using traxxas parts of the bandit

Traxxas check - I´ve made one (radicator II) but not really satisfied.
I started this build Yesterday, since You didn´t wanna test the Scorpion arms for me

I tested those plenty when I built the ghost-rider.
They're a pain for anyone wanting offroad capable suspension travel

DennisM wrote: Plan is to find some telescopic driveshafts for the rear.

You might be interested in this setup.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=127816

Good solution for cheap I think, if that's what you have in mind.

Thanks for the link -
It´s a nice UJ, but not telescopic/sliding.

With fully compressed suspension, the shafts bind - at normal stance, they´re about to pop out.

DennisM wrote:Thanks for the link -
It´s a nice UJ, but not telescopic/sliding.

With fully compressed suspension, the shafts bind - at normal stance, they´re about to pop out.

You should be able to solve that without a need for telescoping shafts. Try raising that cross plate a little. You may have to move the wheels a little further behind the outdrives too. Worst case scenario: Limit the shock travel.
Don't you wish they made longer trailing arms. That'd solve some of the angle changing issues.

I tried with some 2mm spacers under the suspension studs - didn´t do much difference.

It´s no problem at normal stance, but the dogbones will disappear when it gets air - and since it´s more or less a rocket, it´s going to get a lot of air

you give up too quick

I have U-J's on the ghostrider as i was worried about popping dogbones. With U-J's at least they won't get lost.
I used it in 3 maybe 4 races and never poped even one.

True: I use shorter rear shocks, but I also spent a long time in getting the swing and angle changes to work out right for the dogbone end to stay in the drive cups

To be honest, it all comes down to bearings
I made the width of the rear planing on using the Optima UJ´s
And they fit! but I didn´t have any 5x10x3 bearings, only 5x10x4 which made it bind.
So I went on a rampage and found some PB wheelshafts and Avante dogbones

Just ordered proper bearings and another 1/18 crawler slider shaft, which will be cut to fit.

It looks grate Dennis

I love the caged look on that chassis. Have you made any progress since then?

That is definitely an interesting build. Curious to see how you work out the halfshafts.

Thanks for the kind words -

Regarding the progress: The bearings arrived so now it sits with the Optima UJ´s - no binding or popping of.
I´ll need Jeff to cut me a saddle chassis, LiPo cradles, narrow topdeck, front and rear shock mount and and and...