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Recently got back into the hobby and decided to dust off my B2. After doing a lot of reading on here, I found out original B2 parts are rare. Since I will be actively using it, I procured the hard to find parts, in case I do break something. Already updated to the V2 slipper (no way can the original handle the Castle 5700 kv motor, tired it and failed). The wheels are JC Racing Products with JConecpts rubber. Still trying to dial it in. May go with a sensored ESC and tamer motor, if I can't get the front end to stay on the ground. I also picked up a spare motor mount with the intention of milling it, like the newer Factory Team ones. Anyone do this?

Another b2 project!
Welcome and keep on updating.

Cant help with the motor mount milling though...

If you download the Castle-link software you can make that 5700 act any way you want it. It happens to be my favorite. At full potential it is about the most I can ever get close to hooked up, but most of the time I feel I have it set 2/3 of max.

Got these in the mail today. 12mm big bores. Going to make some time to fit them on.

Here is the preliminary fitting without any major modification. Need to get some longer mounting screws for the top of the shocks and replace the rear caps with aluminum ones. The plastic caps use a bigger bushing and I don't like it.

Looks good your B2/3/4
Good to know big bores fit.
you can also mount b4.2 hex stuff front and rear. Then the car has the same width as the b4.

Try mounting the top of the rear spring on the other side of the shock tower.

If you must get rear shock/spring clearance, put a couple washers on the bottom of the shock bolt to arm area, and a couple washers on the inner ball stud to chassis mount. I ran big bores on my B3 for about 1 race, didnt like the feel, put them back onto my gold pan and went back to the kit/stock team shocks and love the car still to this day.

You can drop B4.2 front carriers/knuckles/hex on front after you drill them for 1/8" hinge pin. For the rear, if you want to use current/modern B4 or B5 wheels, you will need a few parts. XXXT (or XXXTCR, dont remember which) rear carriers & B4 CVDs. I have pictures if you want to go that route, I built a friend a B3 that could swap wheels with his B5M with zero loss of width. Turned out really awesome.

JK Racing wrote:You can drop B4.2 front carriers/knuckles/hex on front after you drill them for 1/8" hinge pin.

This works on an RC10 as well, or at least the RC10T.

yellowdatsun wrote:

JK Racing wrote:You can drop B4.2 front carriers/knuckles/hex on front after you drill them for 1/8" hinge pin.

This works on an RC10 as well, or at least the RC10T.

Yes it does, BUT..on the B3, it comes out to the same width as the B4, the RC10 is still a touch narrow. RC10T, I would image is the right width as the T4, they use the same front wheels when using bearings.

Mine is for an RC10T-buggy, so my widths are all screwed up anyways.

Here is my final mounting with the aluminum shock caps. They have better clearance that the plastic ones, only had to sand down the shock tower a tiny bit (might go back later with a dremel for a bit more). I tried the shocks on the front of the rear tower, but the angle was way off. I moved the hubs to the center position and they still clear the turnbuckle. I will most likely add a spacer to the inner ball stud, but they are a pain to remove and didnt feel like pulling it apart. If I can remember the next time I place an order, I might try these for the shock mounting.
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/1781-ASC1781-ft_shock_bushings_blue_aluminum_short/

I'd put spacers behind the shock tower to push it forward. Or use rc10 shock rod ends with the pedestal at the inner camber mount. Might have some clearance issues with the gear cover with that one though.

Finally got paint for the new B3 body. With the recent release of Force Awakens, I thought the buggy kind of resembled a X-wing. Went with a Resistance paint scheme. I really wanted to do Poe Dameron's Black One (black with orange stripe), but dark colors are really hard to see on the indoor track I race at. Maybe I will use it on my World's car. Appreciate all the feed back on this build. Will try some things out here in the near future.

looks great !