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At last! Always wanted one of those but finding one was like winning the lottery. I have a couple of questions too.

This truck ran 10 minutes and went to storage according to seller, batteries still in place caused corrosion, they took a charge and I've got everything working excluding the engine because I haven't fixed the mesh and loose flywheel issues.

So, why the HPI engine? Was the RC10GT only available in kit version?



It's not dust, it's particles from the rotten balloons sealing the rx and rx pack. This is brand new, curiosity got the best of me and I checked some parts like the fuel tank, electronics and took the air filter out.

This version. the tub version was only Kit. not till the flat blue chassis did a rtr version come out. Probably got the HPI motor cheap when someone upgraded a HPI, or his shop had it cheap over say a common OS motor. But he said ran 10 minutes. I dodnt recall a version with white parts and Black arms? MAybe someone can enlighten on that?

Nice score.

alien3t wrote:This version. the tub version was only Kit. not till the flat blue chassis did a rtr version come out. Probably got the HPI motor cheap when someone upgraded a HPI, or his shop had it cheap over say a common OS motor. But he said ran 10 minutes. I dodnt recall a version with white parts and Black arms? MAybe someone can enlighten on that?

Nice score.

Thanks for the info, whoever built this only managed to get trims set incorrectly. Everything else seems OK, eager to see how the diff is built as I don't trust the build now that I've found the trim issue and slipper looks too tight.

As mentioned those only came in kit form. The HPI engine was purchased separately. Probably was the cheaper option at the hobby shop it was purchased from. It is the lesser expensive sport truck so I could see the buyer saving money if he could.

The white parts, black arms were the next and most common version of the whites part trucks. The white arms were supplemented very soon after the GTs release. The other parts eventually all went black.

That's why my google searches were unfruitful for anything rc10gt rtr before the blue pan.

Got to acquire SAE tools, the L wrenches I have from the SC10 aren't enough to undo some stubborn screws, then disassembling the tranny, fixing the flywheel and refill shock bodies. Surprised to feel air in shocks but no shock oil in the shafts or lower parts.

You will always feel a bit of air untill you pump the shock a few times. This is due to the shocks being an emulsion type. Liquids aren't compressible so there needs to be a little air to compress as the shock shaft moves into the shock.

When properly built if you pump the shock a few times the shaft should push itself out about 1/4" (without springs) likewise it will suck in a bit when pulled out fully.

Thanks you, that helps! The air in the shock is at least an inch, both front and rear so oil level is low, they will be the second set of AE shocks I rebuild so every tip counts.

What are your plans for this truck, restore it or? It looks like a great truck to begin with.

Yes it is in good condition, not perfect because of the rust and the body tucked in the lower region. I really don't know what to do except making it operational again. I'm not attached to it and I know these are a blast to drive.

That was a popular engine in the mid nineties. HPI nitro star .15. It was one of the first .15's that would fit in the gt. That is the cheaper version, but they weren't cheap engines, they were priced similarly to the os .12 cz's of the time. There was an upgrade version, the nitro star .15 SS. It was the same engine, but painted black and had a larger heart sink head. They were good engines, I had one in my gt back then. If you're going to run it you should turn the head 90 degrees so the air can flow through the head.

Thank you that's assuring. Work has been slow here, just topped the shocks to see if they leak and waiting on a hex drive to arrive to start disassembling.
Noticed that too, will fix it before running it

Good news, managed to unscrew the stubborn screw and set gear mesh. Maxxed out and still a bit too close for my taste, 16/66 gearing. Ditched the clutch wire spring and went to leading shoes, hope it works good. Finalizing electronics setup and once I align the tires it's ready to burn some fuel. I got 25% here but I'm thinking about buying some 16%. The Nicads are not surprisingly still good, they took a charge and no dead shorts occurred.

Cool truck, I never owned a GT, just a GT2.

Thanks! You have to have one (?) to see how much progress made in ease of assembly was done. The throttle/brake linkage could be simpler and so the brake parts for example. In comparison to this one, the GT2 is light years ahead