RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Took apart my '86 Gold pan... For first time since, well 1986, when I bought over winter break in college. Bleached the white parts cleaned off all the residue from double sided tape, and threw it back together. It will be a runable shelf Queen for the most from now on. Looking for some advice on finishing touches:

1) It is already brushless/lipo/2.4Ghz, but I want to use the stock battery cups in the stock sideways configuration, and I don't mind going with as small a battery as it takes to fit in the cups. I saw a very hazy picture on here of what may be a 3800mAh Turnigy in a similar setup, but I'm damned if I can be sure. Sooo, anyone point me to a lipo to fit?

2) it doesn't have the world's style bellcrank steering, just stock gold pan steering. Any reason I can't or shouldn't make up a servo to steering arm link out of 4-40 allthread with a ball cup on each end? Other than violating originality, that is?

3) body paint... Seems like paint pens can make an easy job of some kinds of detail work, yes? And how do rattle cans like rustoleum or similar, work. It's been so long since I painted mine originally, I have zero recollection of what paint I used. That old body is boring solid color dark green, and will be used on a basher build I just finished.

-Peter

I bought a Turnigy battery, it died on the first run, and since they have no return policy I was immediately out $75. So take that as you will.

The shorty batteries are what I run in my RC10, but I run then front-to-back. I'm not sure how they'd fit sideways.

I run Lectron-Pro, Peak, and ProTek batteries, and have never had an issue with any of them.

I also run a shorty pack in my '87 gold pan, that I've owned since I bought it new. I run it front to back as well. It's a Trinity Revtech pack, it's what I run in my regular race buggy so I already had it. I'm still running brushed in it, a Novak GTX with a Trinity Cobalt 27t