RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I have a rere worlds car coming whenever they unload it off the donkey they used to get it from Cali. I'm thinking of using new electronics, probably an inexpensive brushless system in that for bashing. Since I've been into crawling the last few years I'm not current on what would be the best option. I know the answer is normally mamba or holmes in the crawling world, what is a good option for a buggy? I'd like to use my existing 5000 mah 3c 11.1v LiPos but I'm not sure if they will fit in the battery box. I'm not against getting a new pack or 2 but I'd rather not.

I also may dust off the A stamp short arm RC10 and dig through the parts bin and see what older electronics I have that still work. I'm pretty sure I still have my Novak Racer and maybe a 610-HRV. I have a bunch of old chassis in assorted lack of running order I can liberate parts from. This will see very limited use so I'd rather go the kinda vintage route with that. Is there anything I should be concerned with when using old electronics? Do I have to worry about dry capacitors or things like that?

I am missing a body for the short arm, are there ones available that aren't silly expensive? I do have a LHS that has a lot of NOS so maybe I can find something in a dusty corner. I know they have a RC10 with an Andy's body in their showcase. One day maybe I'll inquire if it's for sale.

It's just me, but I wouldn't run 3s on the WC. For budget electronics that work well, I'd do a Hobbywing setup. I have a Hobbywing Justock setup for mine, w/ 17.5 motor. You could do a different ESC with a modified motor and have more than plenty speed on 2s

As far as the A stamp, heck, I still run a brushed setup in mine, don't want to blow up the 6 gear trans.

yeah, stick with 2s lipo if you are going that route.

vintage electronics are perfectly fine. most older gear can potentially have damages FETS in the esc's more often than not it's the brakes.

i wouldn't hesitate to use old esc and motors, but I would go lipo and 2.4Ghz.

the hobbywing stuff is well known and inexpensive. you could also find pullout systems from RTR cars and trucks that would be suitable for occasional running but not blisteringly fast or powerful. reedy systems, or similar litter ebay for decent prices.

i have a castle sidewinder system I will be putting in a gold pan at some point.

with the re-release of the classic and worlds car, you can find the original style protech body or the turbo mirage quite cheaply in many places on the internet.

I know I have a few old brushed motors, possibly an original AE stock that will need freshening. I still have to go through all my old gear that's scattered between my house and my race shop. My driver also has a bunch of old gear I can talk him into giving me.

I still haven't made the jump to 2.4 except the radios that came with my Wraith RTR and my mini revo. I'm still using my 3PK in my kits. Is interference really that much of an issue? I live in the woods where verizon can barley get me signal, maybe I just haven't run into any issues yet.

I see HW ads in RCCA all the time and they seem to have a good reputation so I will look into their gear. I have used Castle's sidewinder micro in my RC18's and have had no issues. I have their BEC's in all my crawlers and will be buying a holmes ESC that can be programed with their software so that may be an better option. I have no issues buying a few new packs rather than nuke parts.

if you already have a 2.4G radio, just find another rtr receiver and load it up on the chassis and pair it.

it's not that the radio interference is a big deal, but the old radio can be out of tune after many years. unless you have later radios with pcm or fm or digital tuners, the old stuff could be out of tune.

Well, my 3PJ has a 75mhz FP-TJ-FM module in it and at times in one spot in the backyard it does glitch. Maybe it is time to upgrade the radio. Maybe it has something to do with my SCX10 that's been flaking out. It developed an issue where it will work for a minute then stop responding to the throttle. Steering works fine and the Tekin FX-R is showing the proper lights like it's receiving correct signal. I didn't think to swap out receivers and radio to see if that's the problem. I didn't even think to consider that. Sucks, I liked that radio.

if you actually plan to run the car, don't skimp on the radio. It's the one place where you get what you pay for. Not just in features, but in controllability as well.

I agree ^^^

I run my Airtronics MT4 with all of my cars / trucks

I too have the MT-4. It may sound expensive, but the MT4 is really a mid-range radio, with ones like the MT-12 costing way more. The MT-4 has a lot of adjust-ability, can control multiple cars, and even has features like anti-lock-braking. It also feels nice to hold, and the wheel and trigger have a good feel to them. I also have a tactic radio, and Futaba 3prka radio, which both feel cheap, and are cheap, in comparison.

Seems I got lucky and got one of the kits with the off-center drilled CVD's. Going to take pictures tomorrow and send them off to AE and they will send a replacement. They are great with their quick responses. I had a RC18 rtr with a dead transmitter out of the box and they sorted it right quick.

I think I'm going to get a traxxas reciever and use the 2.4 radio from the mini revo. I need to save up a little before I consider another radio.

I'm looking at the sidewinder combo from castle but not sure what kv motor to go with.

The Sidewinder combo is fine, I have two of them. I *think* I have a 3800 motor in my old RC10. So something around that works well, maybe 3600 or so too. I wouldn't get into the 4000's, as they'd be too much for an old car.

Well I will see. I ordered a sidewinder 3 and 4600kv this morning. Worst case I'll limit it a bit in the software.

It won't be *bad*, it's a little hot for that car.