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I have my eye on a B stamp chassis for Rc10T build but have been looking at Rc Carbon Works chassis. Anyone ever built up truck on their 3mm carbon chassis? I want to build it with a buggy body so I am not sure the flat carbon chassis will work since I can't velcro the body to the side of the tub since its flat. I like the idea of the carbon fiber but not sure what route to go with as far a chassis rigidity with the truck front end. Or I could keep my eyes out for a complete truck.....and upgrade from there. Too many choices.

if it's real 100% carbon fiber, it will be plenty stiff for your application. just be sure to use the nose brace tubes and stands(from rc10gt flat pan chassis)

you can build side dams out of lexan that you can tape to the chassis to make whatever dirt shields you'd like. Losi trucks had formed pieces but you can do the same just bending up some flat sheets.

You know I'm strongly considering the RC carbon works for a new build too! I've got a pan chassis that I drilled the hell out of when I was a kid and would like to weld the holes back in, powder coat, and use... unfortunately I'm having a hard time locating a welder to do it. Although it would probably be way more than the $59 the carbon works chassis is going for.

Anyone here use Carbon Works stuff? Is it high quality?

Is there a support brace to connect the engine cover to the back of the rc carbon works chassis?

For 60 their carbon fiber chassis seemed like a good buy. Wish I knew if it is any good cause I can get in a decent C or B stamp chassis for that with less fabrication. But I think it would be neat. Ill have to look in to the GT parts to mount the nose braces. That was one of my major areas of concern. Might just be easier to build a traditional RC10T. Or I could get both.

Legio10 wrote:For 60 their carbon fiber chassis seemed like a good buy. Wish I knew if it is any good cause I can get in a decent C or B stamp chassis for that with less fabrication. But I think it would be neat. Ill have to look in to the GT parts to mount the nose braces. That was one of my major areas of concern. Might just be easier to build a traditional RC10T. Or I could get both.

I can't recall the part number but there seemed to be loads of the nose rod braces available when I looked earlier.

there are enough used pans out there in decent enough shape that it almost doesn't make sense to go through the hassle of welding and refinishing unless you are doing something really special or have the direct capability of doing those things.

in fact, if you use the beaten drilled tub and cut off the back portion, you can make your own rear bumper/support to tie into the motor plate, as the factory option part did.

jwscab wrote:there are enough used pans out there in decent enough shape that it almost doesn't make sense to go through the hassle of welding and refinishing unless you are doing something really special or have the direct capability of doing those things.

in fact, if you use the beaten drilled tub and cut off the back portion, you can make your own rear bumper/support to tie into the motor plate, as the factory option part did.

It's somewhat of a sentimental thing because it was the original tub on mine. I've got some feelers out there to see if anyone can do it for a reasonable price. Hell if someone can just weld in the holes I've got everything I need to do the grinding. A forumite here tig welded his and it turned out great. I wouldn't even be pursing it had his not turned out so well!

And on an unrelated note I play guitar and am building a pedal board that's going to require a good bit of metal work with aluminum - so I'm going to need to find someone sooner or later!

I said heck to buying the carbon fiber chassis and just bought a black B pan chassis. Think it will be a bit easier and I am a bit more of a traditionalist anyhow. I have decided I am going to build a "rat rod" RC10T with more of a "Mad Max" kinda of feel with mismatched colors and the like. Something so when it's done it screams drive me hard and dirty!

Legio10 wrote:I said heck to buying the carbon fiber chassis and just bought a black B pan chassis. Think it will be a bit easier and I am a bit more of a traditionalist anyhow. I have decided I am going to build a "rat rod" RC10T with more of a "Mad Max" kinda of feel with mismatched colors and the like. Something so when it's done it screams drive me hard and dirty!

Yeah it's hard to beat the pan...

I've got enough parts laying around I think I'm going to buy the RC carbon works chassis, shock towers, stealth brace, and maybe battery brace to build a whole new second shelf truck... the only weird thing about the Rc carbon chassis is that there's no brace to connect the transmission to the chassis - unless you can source one of the obscenely priced parts from the old factory graphite chassis!?!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ASSOCIATED-RC10-GRAPHITE-GOLD-MOTOR-BRACE-PLATE-6311-RARE-/262413173932?hash=item3d190b44ac:g:ExcAAOSwY3RXJNxb

!?!?!?

Check this thread mate http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=34855

jwscab wrote:if it's real 100% carbon fiber, it will be plenty stiff for your application. just be sure to use the nose brace tubes and stands(from rc10gt flat pan chassis)

you can build side dams out of lexan that you can tape to the chassis to make whatever dirt shields you'd like. Losi trucks had formed pieces but you can do the same just bending up some flat sheets.

So I was looking at the Carbon Works chassis again and I don't think it comes predrilled for the GT nose tube supports. I just don't see the holes:

Chassis:
http://rccarbonworks.com/store/team-associated/associated-rc10t/cw-084-rc-10-carbon-fiber-chassis-3mm-

GT nose Supports:
https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/7314-ASC7314-front_tube_mounts/

How hard is it to drill a countersunk hole in Carbon fiber? Does it fray?

bully wrote:Check this thread mate http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=34855

Just emailed RPM... although that was such a long time ago I have low expectations of them still having them:(

I kid you not - he emailed me right back and said they have loads of them! Have to send cash and they're $10 a piece... So now that I've got that figured out I need to figure out the front end/nose tube thing

carbon fiber is easy to drill, but yes, it will fray/splinter. so here's how to avoid it.

set up your chassis on a drill press with something sacrificial under it, such as, hardwood, acrylic, fiberglass, aluminum. something that is hard enough that you can support the back side of the work, but soft enough that you can plunge easily. Use a single edge drill, ie, not a stepped drill or split point or some other whiz bang type gimmick drill grind. Just a single edge 118 or 135 degree twist drill. Clamp down the work(chassis) and drill with moderate pressure. don't plunge too fast or hang around too slow. you'll get a feel for it, you want to tool to cut the work without forcing it too fast causing it to gouge out the material.

hole should finish just fine, follow up with a real countersink bit with light/medium pressure.

jwscab wrote:carbon fiber is easy to drill, but yes, it will fray/splinter. so here's how to avoid it.

set up your chassis on a drill press with something sacrificial under it, such as, hardwood, acrylic, fiberglass, aluminum. something that is hard enough that you can support the back side of the work, but soft enough that you can plunge easily. Use a single edge drill, ie, not a stepped drill or split point or some other whiz bang type gimmick drill grind. Just a single edge 118 or 135 degree twist drill. Clamp down the work(chassis) and drill with moderate pressure. don't plunge too fast or hang around too slow. you'll get a feel for it, you want to tool to cut the work without forcing it too fast causing it to gouge out the material.

hole should finish just fine, follow up with a real countersink bit with light/medium pressure.

Awesome! Thanks!