RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Years ago I was lucky enough to get a first generation RC10t for Christmas. After a Super Blackfoot the RC10t was my second hobby build after a long line of store bought toy RC cars... I've almost gotten rid of it many times over the years and I probably haven't actively driven mine since the early 2000s. I pulled mine out of the closet about a week ago and decided to rebuild it from the chassis, nose plate, and nose tubes up in effort to keep the heart and soul of my original truck.

The Bad News:
I drilled a load of holes in the chassis!?! It was apparently super trendy to drill holes in them in the early 90s to save weight. As a 12 year old with access to a screw gun I apparently went a little overboard (see pics below). I've seen at least one forumite here weld in the holes and grind them flush with the surface to great results. I've reached out to him to see if I he can help me out since all the local welders have no idea what I'm talking about and aren't really all that receptive to the idea... It's a pain and I could buy new tube chassis all day long but the idea being this one is the original and has sentimental value.

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16531

Ideally post grinding I'd powder coat the chassis, nose tubes, tranny plate, and nose this color:
http://www.prismaticpowders.com/colors/E-9104B/BLUE-FROST/

I dyed all the plastic parts of the truck years ago and the dye didn't age well... in fact it turned purplish in spots so I'm trying to replace with available Associated stock black where possible if I don't come across reasonably priced RPM pieces like a rear bulkhead, front bulkhead, and RPM body mounts.
Mods:
Here's what I've come up with to at least get the thing at least rolling while still upgraded to a durable driver:

-Black RPM front and rear A Arms (ordered)
-Black RPM rear 3 degree arm blocks
-Black RPM Ball cups
-Lunsford 3mm turnbuckle kit and titanium ball ends
-Potentially Lunsford titanium screws... although Team KNK told me their RC10 Stainless screw kit will work. I'd prefer all the screws on the underside be hex instead of philips.
-A&L #1185 bell crank steering kit
-J Concepts Ford Body

Parts I'm debating between:
-R/C Carbon Works shock towers vs J Concepts new towers: All the holes seem the same and I'm leaning towards the RC Carbon works stuff... any input?

-MIP CVD kit #1186. I found several and wondered if I should pull the trigger since they seem to be hard to come by? I'll be using the stock rear hubs for now... these are 1/4" and I recall them being all the rage back in the day

-HPI Superstar black deep dish 2.2 wheels. I've only found one pic of them on an RC10t but I' assuming they'll fit. I've sourced a few pairs. Here's an RC10t from a few years ago with them in chrome:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-items-sale-trade/376051-vintage-rc10-gold-tub-rc10t-andys-body-reedy-futaba-hitec-hpi.html

Questions:
-Do the RC10t and RC10 have the same rear Bulkhead???

-Suspension - don't even know where to start!?!

-Transmission is the original factory stealth. I'll figure that and engine/electronic stuff later once I get things rolling again.

PICS:
[imghttp://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/firebird1999us/1051227A-A21C-40A4-92F9-A6E39AA2C96F_zps1krpfhjd.jpg][/img]

Wow, and I thought mine had a lot of holes. I'd find a better tub chassis and start from there. I wouldn't do a new build on that one.

firebird1999us wrote:PICS:
[imghttp://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b270/firebird1999us/1051227A-A21C-40A4-92F9-A6E39AA2C96F_zps1krpfhjd.jpg][/img]

Fixed...

Some of the parts that have faded to purple could be re dyed black?

Joey48442 wrote:Some of the parts that have faded to purple could be re dyed black?

Honestly most of the parts can be found so cheap new in black - it's not even worth the effort! The only part I'm having a hard time with is the rear bulkhead. The rc10 and rc10t share that part, right?

The rc10 bulkhead with the short wing tubes and the re release will work with the 10t. The rc10 bulkheads with the long tubes don't have the ball stud location needed.

Would this work:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252262318799

That looks like a worlds bulkhead . It will work but I would email the seller . The pic and add description don't match up.

rctenracer wrote:That looks like a worlds bulkhead . It will work but I would email the seller . The pic and add description don't match up.

I just noticed that too... I can probably see if the part number exists on the associated site too!

Anyone know if HPI 2140 and 2105 rims will work?

http://hpiracing.world/en/part/2140

I was considering switching to MIP shiny 1/4" cvds. I think the kit is 1196:

http://miponline.com/store/mip1196.html

Don't waste your time checking bulkhead part #'s . I think there all #6232 .

rctenracer wrote:Don't waste your time checking bulkhead part #'s . I think there all #6232 .

Did associated ever make a black one? Or are all factory ones white?

Why not a rerelease bulkhead . Only takes a few minutes to dye one black. Just don't use the wifes favorite pot . No clue on hpi rims . The cvd kit looks like its for 3/16 axles.

That bulkhead is stated as white in the listing. I emailed the seller asking if it was black with 5 holes or white with 9 and never got an answer.

rctenracer wrote:Did associated ever make a black one? Or are all factory ones white?

They made tons of them in black. Most if not all the later versions towards the end of the 10 and 10T production run had them in black.

RS Chris wrote:

rctenracer wrote:Did associated ever make a black one? Or are all factory ones white?

They made tons of them in black. Most if not all the later versions towards the end of the 10 and 10T production run had them in black.

Does it have a specific designation if it's black since like none of the places selling have pics?