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I'm a little confused by the setup on my Team car.

Last night I took it out for a test run and it snapped a dogbone after a very short amount of time. In retrospect I think its because there isn't any space to put a spring on the drive cups that came with the 2.2 rear wheel conversion hubs I bought from Wheelspin Models. The old drive cups have a hole that the spring fits into, the new ones have no hole at all.

I looked up the part number in the Team Car manual and it looks like it originally came with CV joints.... that's not what I have. In the meantime I've ordered another dogbone. So my questions are as follows:

1) My car has dogbones, the manual says Dogbone to CV joint. Does that mean I have an earlier drive setup? It's a stealth gearbox.
2) If there isn't any space for the spring how do I stop the dogbone from thrashing itself to pieces (as its already done once)?

Thanks,

NS

All Team Cars came stock with CVDs and I am almost sure the stock rear axles from the rere have holes for the small springs. I would go for CVDs and call it a day. Maybe post a picture of your setup?

Asso_man! wrote:All Team Cars came stock with CVDs and I am almost sure the stock rear axles from the rere have holes for the small springs. I would go for CVDs and call it a day. Maybe post a picture of your setup?

I will post one as soon as I can.

I wonder if the CV will be compatible with my new setup: I have the larger (3/8? maybe?) axles intended for the later wheels suitable for 2.2 tires.

If you have an original unmolested Team Car, it came with 1/4" universal drive shafts, 1/4" flanged bearings and the older style rear hubs. The conversion kit was designed with a dogbone-equipped original or Classic RC10 in mind, and it should have come with 3/16" rear axles only, 3/16" bearings and newer style rear hubs, so I assume you bought dogbones to make it all work. It's not really stated anywhere but it's generally known that you should put an o-ring in each rear axle and probably the transmission outdrives to keep the free-floating dogbone somewhat centered between them.

Better yet, save your money on a new dogbone and put it towards a set of 3/16" CVD or CVA rear axles.

Bottom Feeder wrote:If you have an original unmolested Team Car....

I have a Team Car, but its been thoroughly molested by the previous owner.

Bottom Feeder wrote:...it came with 1/4" universal drive shafts, 1/4" flanged bearings and the older style rear hubs.

Mines got the thicker driveshafts (I assume 1/4"), which were fitted to dogbones, no universals. I bought the conversion kit which I used my dogbones with. If it makes any difference my plastic hubs are black, marked L and R.

Bottom Feeder wrote:The conversion kit was designed with a dogbone-equipped original or Classic RC10 in mind, and it should have come with 3/16" rear axles only, 3/16" bearings and newer style rear hubs, so I assume you bought dogbones to make it all work.

No, I already had the dogbones. Obviously my car is a complete mish-mash.

Bottom Feeder wrote:It's not really stated anywhere but it's generally known that you should put an o-ring in each rear axle and probably the transmission outdrives to keep the free-floating dogbone somewhat centered between them.

I didn't have that, which is probably why mine snapped!

Bottom Feeder wrote:Better yet, save your money on a new dogbone and put it towards a set of 3/16" CVD or CVA rear axles.

Advice gratefully taken; CV kit is on back order now. Thank you.