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I've never even driven an RC10T before today. I picked up 3 last week that came in today. B stamp with mixed and matched black and white parts, I'm not even sure they're all truck parts. C stamp with all black parts. Well what was there, it's incomplete. The last one is what I THINK is an RC10T2. I thought this was going to be just parts but when I checked it out I found it was complete. I just dropped in my RX and battery and went for a drive. Then I put my BL setup in it and had a little fun. The B stamp runs too but needs a little more love. The C stamp and T2 came in a lot advertised as japan toy cars so I got a good deal. I intended to sell the T2 parts but now that I know it runs, I'll likely keep it.

So now to read through the History os the 10T thread (again lol) and see exactly what I have here. Then I can tear them all down and clean them up. As you can see the C stamp is already apart.

A few things I noticed, the B stamp: the front A arms are held to the bulkhead with screws, no idea yet how. One of the rear arm mounts is not from a 10T nd it is riveted in. The rear shock tower I'm pretty sure isn't from a 10T and it's got philips head screws holding it in the bulkhead. There are 2 tie rods in the bulkhead zip tied to the shock tower. But it came with a low profile servo and aluminum bell cranks!

The C stamp: One of the rear arm mounts was upside down. That's really all I noticed about that one, it was mostly parts. Either way, both of these trucks were put together (or repaired) in a very unique way!

Looks like the T2 is actually a T3. Either way it's cool.

I forgot the B stamp came with 2 bodies. I assume the one with the big holes is for a GT. With all the new additions I had to organize a bit.





(That airsoft rifle is for when the neighbors dogs come up in my garage.)

Nice 10T

The cool wall, better than Top Gear

Cool score. Interesting setup with the T3 shock tower "reverse engineered" on the 10T. I'm guessing it came that way.

I was looking at that shock tower again and thought it looked a lot like the one on the T3. Yeah they all just came in today as you see them.

I figured out they are:
7035 mid release inline B stamp 10T Team Truck
7011 very late all black C stamp 10T Truck
6038 T3 Team Truck

Now to just get all the correct parts on the 10Ts.

SiRacer420 wrote:I was looking at that shock tower again and thought it looked a lot like the one on the T3. Yeah they all just came in today as you see them.

I figured out they are:
7035 mid release inline B stamp 10T Team Truck
7011 very late all black C stamp 10T Truck
6038 T3 Team Truck

Now to just get all the correct parts on the 10Ts.

You got any pics of the pile of 10T parts? The older 10T Truck looks like it has buggy shocks in the rear. I wonder if that's why they used a different shock tower ?

Only the newer one is stripped so far.



Went ahead and stripped the Stealth Trans too and cleaned it up. Spins nice now.



I'm not sure how to tell the difference in the buggy shocks vs the truck shocks yet, but the rear ones do look different.

Shaft length (lol) is what will tell you if it's truck shocks or not. The shocks on the T3 are correct so you can use those as a guide.

Front is 1.02"
Rear is 1.32"

Are those HPI superstar wheels? Which mounts does it have on the rear axle? Any idea what bearing/bushing size was on the front?

The fronts had an insert for Asociated bearings. The rear was hex to roll pin adapter. If that helps.

Looking at the shock gaskets I'm going with they're buggy shocks.

I got it all apart and got the rivet out. I don't know what rear arm mount this is, but I don't think it's for this truck.


One extra hole the chassis, could be worse.



Front bulkhead was cut in half, not sure what's up with that.


As for the wheels, they're HPI but that's all I know.



What RS Chris said about the insert and the hex adapter was right on.





Here are some measurements




Don't know why these won't flip over. Oh well you get the idea.








I hope you guys like pictures, I tend to overdo it sometimes lol

Parts are being cleaned now and then I can figure out what I need to replace.

Change your digital caliper to inches,

Bearings should be 3/16 x 3/8.

I had it on Imperial but it was giving stuff like 24/128

Metric is just easier to read. (I never thought I'd be an advocate for the metric system.)

There are a LOT of different parts on this one. Mostly hardware.

Lots of "custom work" there. I don't know if I like the rivet the best, or the two piece bulkhead. At least now you can make it right.