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I decided to rebuild my old RC10 XXX worlds car with a Gisi chassis that I have had for a long time. The chassis kits were ultra rare and small numbers, basically it's a composite craft worlds dimension chassis, but the Gisi uses a flipped front bulkhead and tower, and has a screwy top deck/tower/bulkhead attachment system and causes a severe rear sweep to the upper link (like 45*) so I decided to just build it without, and it's hella-stiff anyway.

All RPM parts, A&L front tower with 93' worlds rear, Lunsforg gold links and pins, Novak M1c and Polaris rec, S&K 1400 SCR, S&K Ironman Mod 14 x 3, S&K AIRS Pro-SE shell, Proline Pro 105/88 tires etc- With it's big-brother Composite Craft RC10T Both need paint still-

Charlie don't surf wrote:...but the Gisi uses a flipped front bulkhead and tower, and has a screwy top deck/tower/bulkhead attachment system and causes a severe rear sweep to the upper link (like 45*) so I decided to just build it without, and it's hella-stiff anyway.

Did you mount the upper links to front of the tower, or under the front holes of the top deck?

Gisi chassis loses almost all of it's coolness without the topdeck and flipped front tower.

I attempted every different variable that I could...the only thing that gets rid of the sweep is 5* castor blocks...and no one ever ran that!

Here are a few of the reasons I've left the deck off (but I do miss the front flipped tower, but I tried EVERTHING to make it work)


Couple of Hoopty's Gisi cars with both upper camber link mounting options- this one looks ok, but the way the topdeck mounts to the front tower is such an afterthought that I just can't-
This is the other option-

None of these options were good with me. Again, I did hope to retain the flipped front tower, but even with the RPM steering enhancement kit flipped, it still spaces out like crap-

C'mon...flip the front arms

Or...where there is a will (and a dremel), there is a way...