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Hi,

As title says I have some questions on my build, pictures will follow.

What I have:

Graphite chassis (nose cut off, I got it like that)
RC10T nose plate
RPM wide arms nip all around (yes the wide arms intended for the rpm narrow chassis conversion)
RPM RC10T rear hub carriers --> first question this requires B4 CVDs, right?
Currently 1/4 inch axles with fitting dog bones (no idea where I got those from)
Stealth tranny with B4 slipper
SC10 (?) motor plate and gear cover. --> 2nd question: I need to tap that motor plate, are the tranny case screws 4-40 ?
Aluminum front bulkhead gpm I think (silver)
Blue anno rear arm mounts gpm

So to recap my questions:

With RC10T hub carriers I need B4 CVDs, right? Also the other bearings to match the 3/16 axles.

I also would like to be flexible with wheels without exceeding max legal width. I really like the JC Raching B2 wheels, so a hub setup that doesn't push out too far might be preferable. So if I have to switch to GT carriers and use the B44 CVDs that is fine with me, I'd just like to order CVDs once and stick with them.

I have 2 options for the tranny case and motor plate:

1. Convert to metric m3 and increase the hole diameter on 3 of the gear box holes, I have screws and tap
2. Get the right size SAE tap which I believe is 4-40, is that correct?

Thanks for any help,

Tony

Short update:

So I've found out with wheels I have what will and will not exceed 250mm width:

Old 2" HPI super stars direct fit to the 1/4 inch axles: too wide

Old 2.2" HPI SS with hex adapter (I think they were labeled for Losi) : just under 250mm at max width through suspension travel.

Old associated wheels both 2" and 2.2" direct fit to 1/4" axles too wide by about 6mm when a arms are horizontal.

I assume most wheels for 1/4 inch axlesare going to be too wide, the hex adapters gives me options. I guess the JC Racing wheels are out then, damn.

Don't forget the wide rpm arms are supposed to be used with the rpm narrow arm mounts and modified chassis.

So you are going to be too wide with those arms and mounts unless you use b4 wheels. Then figure out which hubs work best. B3 are slightly are narrower than rc10t hubs, which are same as rc10 buggy. Not sure on rc10gt hubs.

As for the motor plate, you can get a re release one cheap and cut off the top side. Then get a reverse gear cover someone makes on shapeways.

Thanks for the reply jwscab,

I am aware of the original narrow chassis design, but that is not my goal here. I want to use a normal width chassis, and combine it with the wider arms, and purchase the hub carriers and CVAs that give me the most options wheel wise.

I am not a big fan of the modern dish wheels, and was hoping that the combination RPM GT hub carriers (sold out) with the B44 CVAs would be narrow enough to use the JC Racing B2 wheels (same offset as original RC10 but for 3/16" axles) and still be within legal dimensions. All I know right now that those wheels with the RPM RC10T carriers will be too wide. Will the B3 or GT carriers be narrow enough? I don't know.

I'm first going to finish this build with the 1/4" axles and dogbones and see what wheels work.

My other buggy has the modified narrow chassis, maybe that one will get the B2 universals and I'll keep the 1/4" on this one.

Choices.......

you are going to be running a very fine line between 250mm and not with that setup depending on the wheel then, which you found out. the b3 hub expect the arm to be out 1/8" per side compared to a b2, which is same as rc10. so if you can juggle those arms, the b3 carriers, and use the b44 cvd setup, you will get there, probably with those ss wheels and a narrow hex.

RPM GT hubs have the same offset as RC10/T hubs. They only raise the axle a little because of the larger bearing.

B3 hubs likely won't give you enough offset to make up for the RPM world arms either. As jwscab pointed out they correct for only 1/8“ but the RPM arms were I think like 7/16“ longer than stock. Might be off on that but I know they're more than 1/8“.

I might actually have the GT hubs. At least they are for the 1/4 inch axles, or for 3/8" OD bearings.

I went through all of my wheels, and I have 4 sets of different HPI wheels with hex that will not exceed legal width. So no problem there.

I want to avoid using the original motor plate because it is soo thin.

All I need is the confirmation of the tranny gear case screw threads, 4-40 ?!?

Thanks all, Tony

yes, stealth trans and rc10 buggy use imperial (standard) dimensions, ie #4-40 screws for motor plate.

Thanks jwscab,

now I can order the correct tap. The 100° countersink drill bit arrived today.

I know you want to keep the rear end wide but just to put it out there for general info...

...mid motor and a narrowed RPM worlds rear end won't work well together. The RPM arm mounts use the rear 6 gear holes so they'd get in the way of the rear bulkhead. Moving the rear bulkhead further back behind the arm mounts then causes problems with mounting the shocks and camber links.

B2/B3 rear arm mounts might be usable instead of the RPM Worlds arm mounts though.

I guess it is time to add some pictures.

This build does not have the narrowed chassis, just the wide arms intended for the narrow chassis, making the car wider. I have another buggy with the narrow chassis, but that one is not converted to mid motor.

My collection is like this:

RC10T
RC10 narrow chassis conversion
RC10 graphite mid motor, wide rpm arms -> the one I am building in this thread

Traxxas Rad2
Traxxas Rad2 mid motor conversion

another item you might want to consider is the nose brace tube brackets from the rc10gt, to add support to the aluminum nose.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTX50

Very similar to my project, except that I used the GT truck transmission, which is effectively a lay down tranny. I also used the wide arms and truck nose plate. I cut my own G10 fiberglass chassis. The car will put down lap times similar to that of my B5M.

With the GT tranny you have some height issues to overcome between the rear bulkhead and the top of the tranny. Nothing difficult though.

I also used GT chassis supports for the nose "tubes", although I cut G10, umm, tubes, for it.

The nose brace rods will connect to my signature standing low profile servo mounts. That will be the only way to package a standard size LiPo or 6-cell battery.

I originally "developed" that design to fit 7-cell NIMHs without the hump in my RC10.

The laydown assembly like NIX has designed for the steering servo juuuust barely won't fit with a standard size Lipo.

I have 1 2s2p from MaxAmps, 2 cheap hardcase Lipos and one shorty pack.

I am trying not to make any car shorty only. Even though it would make sense for the shock setup I guess.