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I'm sure this has been discussed somewhere - probably more than once, but my quick searching didn't turn up anything definitive. I've got an old 6-gear transmission from an original RC10 Championship Edition. I am wanting to beef it up to handle brushless so I was comparing it to the parts/manual for the RC10 Classic reissue. It looks to me like the only parts that are really different between the two transmissions are the idler gears, is that correct? I guess they are made of a more durable material, so if I rebuild my transmission with the new idlers is that "brushless ready"? Are all the transmission parts interchangeable between the original 6-gear and the RC10 Classic reissue?
Thanks!

The old tranny will not handle brushless power. If you want to run brushless, swap in a Stealth transmission.

Oh bummer... The RC Car Action review mentioned "The Classic includes a 48-pitch spur gear and revised internal gears that are still 32-pitch, however, they’re made of better materials that make the buggy more brushless friendly." Maybe that was a bit of glossy overstatement on their part....

Tricky with the 6 gear. Built well and careful diff tightening and you can handle middle of the road brushless. Crazy low turn motors will hammer the diff, and/or strip idler gears.

I had a brushless in my 6 gear runner for awhile. It eventually grenaded in spectacular fashion. Internals were completely stripped. Swap to Stealth and you won't have any issues. It will be faster too.

You could always make some steel idler gears by cutting the out drive part off a set of outdrive gears.. Then all that you will need to worry about is the diff..

What turn brushless motor do you plan to run?

I would have thought that a stock, good condition 6 gear could easily cope with > 13.5 BL motors..

I'm pretty sure AE said the updated 6 gear would handle a 10.5.

Hi,

I have a 6 gear with a 6.5 turn brush-less setup and it has been working on the street just fine.

I have upgraded the idler gears and I did the bearing conversion that supports the axle drive

gears much better, this is why I believe it is still working.

I will see if I can find you the bearing conversion information.

For off-road I wouldn't go for such a low turn motor, like Scr8p said.

The stealth is definitely a better gearbox, much, much easier to work on, and the slipper is sweet.

But saying that I get a kick out of building a smooth 6 gear.

Cheers, Dave.

essentially, you use a 3/8 x 5/8 bearing where the felt seal normally goes. add a small screw on the outside of the left case to prevent the bearing from walking out. the right case has the motor plate that holds the bearing.

then remove the inner non flanged bearing from the outdrive and add in a small sleeve, or inner bearing race of an old bad bearing so that there is only one bearing and a spacer in the outdrive.

I have one apart I can snap some pics of later.

That's it,

The secret is having the spine plate with the idlers fitted and making sure the output gears spin

easily by hand.

I have had them bind, just swap the output gear for an other one until it turns without binding.

Then make sure they go back on the same side when assembling the gearbox.


The outer small bearing is flanged, just leave out the non flanged bearing and circlip.

I used brass tubing for the sleeve, it only has to be about 3mm wide, needs to slide tightly over the

output gear.

I was planning to try some aluminum tubing for the next gearbox.

Aluminum has a thicker wall.

Cheers, Dave.

Thanks for all the info. Yeah I am running the larger bearings already on the main outdrives. I haven't picked out a motor yet, but I will probably find something on the milder end.

Found it,

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8834

DaveM wrote:Found it,

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=8834

Nice!! Thanks Dave!

I was running a completely original 6 gear on dirt oval (and later on a paved oval) using a 13.5 brushless and Lipos, and had no problems to speak of. Conducting general maintenance, I noticed a couple of the idler gear screws would loosen over time, but loctite fixed that.