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I have been unable to get to a dirt playground to bash with my RC10T. So of course I'm balding my tires on my truck. With no time in the near future to play with it anywhere but on pavement. Can anyone recommend a wheel set/tire combo that is good for street use. I currently have just my pin axle but am interesting on the "hex conversion bolt on" to open up my options. I would prefer the "rim" look instead of my stadium truck wheels from 94'

I'm assuming slapping on a set of stadium wheels won't work without changing something other than a hex nut.

Thanks all

Hmm for multi terrain use I go for something like Proline Dirthawgs as they can still be used offroad with decent traction and wear well on pavement. And you can likely get some form of wheel for the truck still from Associated.

Thanks CLM! I think I can work with those...hopefully I can find a trendy 2.2 wheel to compliment them on my reborn RC10T. I was looking into the road rage 2.8 tires and then slap on a pair of off road tires when I take the truck to the park..

Not a problem! Question, is your 10t still equipped with the early thicker axles that taper down to the thread? Or the later thinner axle?

You will find more wheel options with the later thin axle then the early one.

Without even looking I'm going to say my axel is tapered. I will check later today when I get home. I will say the washers behind the pin are a little mangled on one side. I hope the aftermarket axel has that in the kit.

Can I upload pictures from an iPad? Or do I need to be at a desktop?

You might not be able to upload from an ipad directly, but many people have found uploading to something like photobucket and then linking to it works from an ipad... Yeah more steps but that tends to be apple for you... (Dang you why no sd card you evil laptop!)

As for the axles, if you have dogbones and not universals all you would need to convert is a set of the newer axles and bearings for the rear. This kit for the rc10 classic would do that for you.

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6802-ASC6802-rc10_rear_wheel_conversion/

If you have universals or cv joints you will have to replace the whole thing for the most part which might require a bit more looking.. or not, here is a link to some on MiP's site.

http://miponline.com/store/mip1196.html

sorry for the blurry picture…I'm still getting the hang of this picture posting. It looks like it's the older tapered version. and yes i have dog bones so being that my spacers are a little banged up I should look to get the newer version of axels and the washer/spacer kit I see on tower hobby website.

it's so hard to buy from internet. I like to walk into my store and see if what I think is 12mm will fit etc.

After updating the axel from the Team Associated website that you recommend. The drive would still be from a pin correct. I would then need to get the 12mm hex bolt on to explore more wheel options. Can I put on a 2.2" exterior 3" SC wheel? or would the wheel be hitting the suspension components?

With the way the stadium truck tires are so wide and in the open it probably won't hit... but without modifying the whole thing it will always be a stadium truck. I would suggest if you are wanting more of a short course style truck you might look for an short course style truck as they are already setup chassis length/width/bodymounts to be in that style.

Going hex style on the back will be easy with the newer axles in the back, slide a hex adapter on and you are set... The front is a whole other matter however as the 10t is a bearing in wheel setup where as the hex style needs bearing in hub to work. You will end up replacing everything at the ends of your front a-arms to make it work and it is somewhat trial and error.

Just a quick bit of looking, it looks as if associated has non hex type short course wheels that should work on the front as is.

https://www.teamassociated.com/wheel_charts/

Anything listed in the 1/10 short course section with an 'Axle or bearing dia' of Bearing: 3/8" should bolt right on the front.

I see what your saying about everything is pointing towards an SC truck. What my project started out was nostalgic flare when I found my old truck few weeks ago. (Perhaps, see if I ignited a flame hot enough to build a new RC) Then it was to get her running again fast enough to beat my neighbor's nitro, then to mind blown state by today's technology. Now I find myself obsessed with hop-ups. I had to come to realization that the truck wasn't worth spending $100's on updating her to today's standards.

In reflection, I just want her to have a little more of a modern aggressive look. Not looking to have her tires under her body but maybe narrow her stance a touch.

Thanks for your suggestions and patience. Your feedback and honestly has been greatly appreciated.

looks like I should be doing both these upgrades:



https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6801-ASC6801-rc10_front_wheel_conversion/

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/6802-ASC6802-rc10_rear_wheel_conversion/

You shouldn't need the front ones as they are there to widen the front of an rc10 for modern buggy wheels, the back one you already have the uprights they are just white in color.

If you have universal axles however, they are like the picture below with the axle and dogbone connected, you will need to replace the whole driveshaft with something like the mip cvd's and appropriate bearings.

I do have that style drive shaft. I should be looking for the Cvd compatible to the RCT4. It seems the only one that would make sense size wise. Do to Stadium truck geometry etc. and basically the T's sibling

You would want to find it sized for the rc10t/gt/t2 as per the link to MIP above, this has to do with the length of the dogbone section. The t4 dogbone is a different length and likely won't fit your trucks arms/transmission/rear carriers.

For the most part, parts will interchange between the 10t/t2/gt within reason but after the t2 the trucks are a total different beast altogether