Build Log: Holeshot RC10GTe
Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2017 4:40 pm
Introduction
Prior to the holiday season, I rebuilt an RC10GT that had been sitting in the garage since about 1998. Throughout that project, I stockpiled numerous items from eBay and a handful of online hobby shops that still had stock on hand. 3 of those items will form the foundation of this build:
Holeshot Racing Chassis
What really distinguishes it from other available RC10GT chassis is the fact that it's completely flat - so there won't need to be any compromises made when laying out the battery and electronics. The other thing that's really nice is just how thick it is. From reading about other experiences with taking the GT electric, I know that one of the things that must go is the engine mount - which also served as a chassis brace. Having that additional thickness should mitigate flex issues. This is the only reference to it I can find online.
Dynotech Motor Mount and ESC Shelf
I found these on eBay. The motor mount is used in numerous other GTe builds. You can read about its strengths and weaknesses in this recent build by RC10th.
[UPDATE 1/22] I doubt the ESC shelf will be used. When I purchased it, it didn't occur to me the implications this would have on COG (center-of-gravity). For the indoor clay tracks I'll be running on, I'm going to want the COG to be fairly low and I don't imagine an extra 50g mounted this high is a good thing! We'll see - something I learned early on in my career as a software developer... TEST. TEST. TEST.
Some Thoughts, Some Questions
Not sure what motor will eventually be going in, but I do have a Tekin RSX ESC that I'll be using. I've been really impressed with the V2 threaded shocks + big bore springs on my nitro GT, so I'll probably pick up another set of adapters from Avid and duplicate that setup on the GTe.
One final thought that perhaps others might have an opinion on... I ended up replacing a few nylon parts on my nitro GT with aluminum simply so I could use loctite to avoid loosening issues. This was most prevalent on the rear a-arm mounts. Will an electric motor create the same amount of vibration as the nitro engine did? Probably not, but will it be enough to show similar behavior? Time will tell!
Prior to the holiday season, I rebuilt an RC10GT that had been sitting in the garage since about 1998. Throughout that project, I stockpiled numerous items from eBay and a handful of online hobby shops that still had stock on hand. 3 of those items will form the foundation of this build:
Holeshot Racing Chassis
What really distinguishes it from other available RC10GT chassis is the fact that it's completely flat - so there won't need to be any compromises made when laying out the battery and electronics. The other thing that's really nice is just how thick it is. From reading about other experiences with taking the GT electric, I know that one of the things that must go is the engine mount - which also served as a chassis brace. Having that additional thickness should mitigate flex issues. This is the only reference to it I can find online.
Dynotech Motor Mount and ESC Shelf
I found these on eBay. The motor mount is used in numerous other GTe builds. You can read about its strengths and weaknesses in this recent build by RC10th.
[UPDATE 1/22] I doubt the ESC shelf will be used. When I purchased it, it didn't occur to me the implications this would have on COG (center-of-gravity). For the indoor clay tracks I'll be running on, I'm going to want the COG to be fairly low and I don't imagine an extra 50g mounted this high is a good thing! We'll see - something I learned early on in my career as a software developer... TEST. TEST. TEST.
Some Thoughts, Some Questions
Not sure what motor will eventually be going in, but I do have a Tekin RSX ESC that I'll be using. I've been really impressed with the V2 threaded shocks + big bore springs on my nitro GT, so I'll probably pick up another set of adapters from Avid and duplicate that setup on the GTe.
One final thought that perhaps others might have an opinion on... I ended up replacing a few nylon parts on my nitro GT with aluminum simply so I could use loctite to avoid loosening issues. This was most prevalent on the rear a-arm mounts. Will an electric motor create the same amount of vibration as the nitro engine did? Probably not, but will it be enough to show similar behavior? Time will tell!
