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I'm entering two cars into the The Brett Davis Vintage GP at the end of month the Club 10 will be my 2wd entry.
When I bought the chassis and spares in the first picture below I wasn't sure which model cougar it was, it was just listed as “Schumacher cars”. Upon inspection I think I'm correct in identifying it as a Club 10 its shocks have black plastic bodies and the chassis looks to have the holes drilled for a mechanical speed controller.
Their are a few nice spares in the pile of parts that came with it, the second chassis is in much better condition than the one on the complete car which is dented and bent. There is also a complete set of red vari shocks, a spare diff, wishbones and other useful parts to keep this cat racing all in all I'm very pleased with the haul.

I decided to build the car with a brushed motor and wanted to keep the car as Schumacher as possible including the electrics. I have found an FH1000 esc and a few choices of Schumacher motor to power it and to future proof the car it needed a slipper clutch so I ordered a cougar 2 works transmission for parts.

I will be using modern radio and lipo batteries so a big part of the build has been finding a neat way to hold a shorty battery.

Only 22 days to get it ready

The car and parts were relatively clean but I took it all apart and gave everything a good scrub the usable chassis had hard glue residue which needed sanding down this meant the anodizing was scrubbed of in places, inspired by past projects I have seen on this forum I had hoped to get the chassis to a mirror finish and after much sanding and cleaning and sanding and cleaning…… you get the picture, I gave up and left it with more of a brushed finish. I only have a month to get this done and I wanted to rock up to Dudley with a finished car not just a shiny chassis I plan on going the whole hog one day but for now I stand in awe at efforts of others.

Between the Cougar 2 works transmission and the Club 10 lot I ended up with three identical diffs, can anyone tell me which spec it is I don't think they are club 10 or works spec the diff washer carrier is plastic, I think the works ones are alloy?
The Slipper clutch needed a new race for one side of its thrust bearing, the pic shows original snapped in two but other than that it was just a case of cleaning and giving it fresh silicone grease and it was as good as new.
I had hoped to use the front shock tower that came with the car but when I fitted the red vari shocks found that the shocks were two short. I guess I need to keep an eye out for a set of rears to get it to work. Thankfully I have a Cougar mk1 one project which came with a home made shock tower, after much measuring I found only one set of holes to be evenly spaced so although it looks like I have lots of shock set up options any other position would leave the shocks at odd angles.
Anyone recognise these purple alloy rear wishbones that came fitted to the car? When fitted with a single washer between chassis and pivot block it gives the wheels mad toe out, I would need to use lots of spacers to get 1 deg toe in which would probably leave the suspension with lots of unwanted flex. I guess they are for a different car, perhaps they would work better with a Cougar 2 works I figure it has a different chassis to the other early cougars, my works transmission certainly wouldn't fit on my chassis with out drilling new holes.
The shorty battery has been secured with a cut down Radshape battery holder and mission posts and strap I have added a little hole in the strap to get a balance lead and lipo low voltage sensor fitted. I will use foam to stop the battery from moving and shearing off the balance lead.
All I have left to do now is fit new tyres to the wheels, paint the body shell and learn how to use a comm lathe and prep my Schumacher motors for the big day.

First off welcome to the wonderful world of Schumacher

To answer a few of your questions

The red alloy shocks would have been the standard shocks for the club 10

Yes the works gear box should have a pro diff with alloy carriers, looks like you only have a trilobe (sport)diff unfortunately so you works box may just have been a conversion kit.Schumacher did a works conversion kit that had a fibreglass template to drill the chassis for fitting. If I was you I would use the works box as it moves the diff slightly to the rear of the buggy to straighten out the angle of the driveshafts.

The works chassis is exactly the same shape as the chassis's you have except for no holes for manual speed controller, gearbox mounting holes and a small checkout for more travel of the rear arms.

The alloy rear arms look to be an option part for 1 of the nitro vehicle where the engine is in front of the shock tower and the shocks fit on to the rear of the arms meaning yours are back to front hense the toe out.

As for towers you can get carbon 1's for fibre-Lyte new
http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/cars/schumacher/fl_cougar2.html

Hope this helps out and good luck

Adrian

Retro rc wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2017 6:03 am Hope this helps out and good luck

Adrian

Thanks Adrian that helps a lot, I will have to buy a nito car to put those purple wishbones on
Unfortunately I don't have a complete cover for the gears as I want to race the car I will have to wait till I find one before doing the gearbox upgrade.
Liking the Fibre Lyte Shock tower I can see a carbon binge on the horizon.

Hey Chris

repro gear covers and body shells are easy to get hold of, contact Steve from penguin body shells on eBay , he'll sort you out

Retro rc wrote: ↑Thu Jan 12, 2017 7:29 pm Hey Chris

repro gear covers and body shells are easy to get hold of, contact Steve from penguin body shells on eBay , he'll sort you out

Thanks again Adrian, I will do that

I had a go at dyeing some wheels today, it proved to be a satisfying experience. I followed the instruction, adding, vinegar, detergent, half the bag of dye and a kettle of boiling water. It took about 15 mins and they look a nice deep red

The Car is ready just need to get the ProCat finished now.

First off seeing the wheels by themselves I was thinkin you made the same mistake I made a long time ago with one of my 1/8 scale buggies. I dyed the rims with the same color dye and had regrets.

THEN, I seen it on the car. That looks great. A little blood red action going on and it ties in with the body fade quite well IMHO. Turned out killer

Todd

klavy69 wrote: ↑Wed Jan 18, 2017 10:39 pm Turned out killer

Todd

Thanks Todd. I'm very pleased with the results, the red wheels and yellow body were requested by the organisers of The Brett Davis Vintage GP as a homage to Brett and Brum.
Really looking forward to driving it now hopefuly I can get to a track before the race to work on the setup.

I thought that one difference between the club 10 and the other cougars was that they had a geared transmission… but I like the belt trans anyway. I do wish cougars were a little easier to find on this side of the Atlantic, but just not so much.

This may be off topic, but do the front axle carriers/ steering blocks only house one bearing per side? I was looking at a scan of the cougar manual a few weeks back and thats what it looked like.

I LOVE those JC 5 spokes for the schuey cars, I'd love to adapt them to other makers, but the castle block is so unique. I saw on one of the 3d printing sites, someone had made adapters to convert castle block schueys to 12mm hex. I'd love to see an adapter the would let me put a castle block over a drive pin and run those wheels.

losiXXXman wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2017 10:38 pm I thought that one difference between the club 10 and the other cougars was that they had a geared transmission… but I like the belt trans anyway. I do wish cougars were a little easier to find on this side of the Atlantic, but just not so much.

Club 10 mark 1 was pretty much a rerelease of the original Cougar... belt trans, oil shocks, turnbuckles. It was the Club 10 mark 2 that brought in all the changes - gear trans, solid links, plastic shocks.

losiXXXman wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2017 10:38 pmThis may be off topic, but do the front axle carriers/ steering blocks only house one bearing per side? I was looking at a scan of the cougar manual a few weeks back and thats what it looked like.

Yes, the standard Top Cat / Cougar / Cougar2 / Club 10 / Shotgun / Storm / Nitro 10 vehicles all had single bearing hubs as standard. A twin bearing upgrade was available, though.... just bought a few packets a few weeks ago!

losiXXXman wrote: ↑Fri Jan 20, 2017 10:38 pmI LOVE those JC 5 spokes for the schuey cars, I'd love to adapt them to other makers, but the castle block is so unique. I saw on one of the 3d printing sites, someone had made adapters to convert castle block schueys to 12mm hex. I'd love to see an adapter the would let me put a castle block over a drive pin and run those wheels.

Try these guys: http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/clearance


Alex

My favorite cars are Schumachers which works out well in the Uk. If you can stomach paying the postage the Cougar mk1, 2 and club 10 have come up quite regularly on ebay uk since I've been looking these last few months.

I have the single bearing hubs at the moment. But would like the upgrade to dual, the wheels are designed for 4wd which use dual in the hubs. I have had to cut the inside of the wheel down a bit to stop them rubing the hub carrier time will tell jf I have weakened them to much I guess the dual bearing hubs would look similar to the 4wd one on my Procat and not foul in the same way? Could you tell the part number so I can look out for them?

CVRrc wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2017 8:01 amI have the single bearing hubs at the moment. But would like the upgrade to dual, the wheels are designed for 4wd which use dual in the hubs. I have had to cut the inside of the wheel down a bit to stop them rubing the hub carrier time will tell jf I have weakened them to much I guess the dual bearing hubs would look similar to the 4wd one on my Procat and not foul in the same way? Could you tell the part number so I can look out for them?

Here you go mate, part number U815K: Pretty much the same as the single bearing hub, to look at....

Alex

Incredible_Serious wrote: ↑Sat Jan 21, 2017 4:01 pm
Here you go mate, part number U815K:
U815K.jpg

Pretty much the same as the single bearing hub, to look at....

Alex

Thanks Alex. Looks like I would have to do the same wheel trimming but the extra bearing definitely looks worth while. The hunt begins.