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I guess I will start a build thread instead of just lurking.

I had a RC10 CE as a kid, and recent blew the dust off. A co-worker is a collector, and told me that the gold pan was too clean to bash, so I ended up buying a WC re-re, which was cheaper than it would have cost to upgrade the old CE anyway.


What started out as a box stock build has changed direction a bit, but not too much.

First hurdles were the normal issues with the gearbox being tight, and the CVD and topshaft machined incorrectly. Waiting in Associated to send replacements or get back to me at least.

I had a spare B4 topshaft, so I continued.

Picked up a vinyl "CF look" chassis protector off epay, but failed to read the fine print that it wasn't for the WC...oh well, it fit well enough to do it's job.
Also placed an order with AVID to pick up some bearings for the steering and my SC10.2.
Decided that there was a bit too much white on the chassis, which some RIT took care of nicely. My first go at dying parts was a success.

Once you get those out of the way you should be golden
If you don't tap the steering pivots, the bushings will be very tight. That's where people say you have to buy bearings, but in reality tapping the pivots makes the bushings work great.
Other than that, I think the other mod I would make is the ball ends. The stock rere pop off very easily. Rpm for strength everywhere but the inner steering and front inner camber link area (they would hit)

My first kit and the last kit had cva issues. The first one the pin was ok, but the cup didn't seem to machine machined out properly. Went at it with the dremel a little bit and it worked fine. The last kit, the pin hole was off like yours. Thankfully, i had a new b44 rear cva kit in my AE parts box so i was able steal the axle from it to keep the build rolling.

My first kit had the top shaft issue as well, the other 3 I built have been fine.

Picked up a 1258TG for cheap with a coupon from Amain and a front bumper from Rapid_RC via shapeways.

Thanks for the comments GoMachV. I actually ordered some RPM cups a while back from Tower, they just haven't made their way on yet.

I have made a bit more progress, just no pics of it for evidence, but it is more or less a rolling chassis now.

Added goodies:
RC Carbon Works rear tower that uses B5M wing mount
Big Bore springs up front
bumpsteer shims made from wing tube
AE battery thumbnuts
STRC Blue anno servo mounts
Dirt Hawg rear tires and ribs up front for bashing. The locals like Dirt webs, but they aren't in at the moment
Viper body (started paint last night...nothing fancy, just rattle cans)

Also just ordered a 4PV radio and some new receivers that should arrive today.
For motivation I am leaning towards one of the new Castle sensored setups. Not sure if the 5700kV is too much...

Looks great! I'm building mine now but didn't get too far. Waiting for AE to send me replacement diff balls as one had a flat spot.

I was hoping the top shaft issues were solved but I guess it's a guessing game.

Are these the RPM cups?

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXRB06&P=FR&gclid=CjwKEAiA79zDBRCgyf2FgeiY-CESJABzr0BMf1M5OJFhZhB-TTKM-kIxT_iKPUHKcd4g3_XLgSWDdBoCPZbw_wcB

Looking forward to following your build.

That is them.

Snapped some pics last night while I installed the RX and antenna.

I really like the upgrades on your buggy. Especially the Custom Works rear shock tower with the B5M wing mount , and CF battery strap. I've got to get a set of those Dirt Hawgs for bashing. They look like they'll last a while. I have heard that if you use Savox servos, they yield a very high amp draw, which leads to voltage spikes and brown out of the Rx. Resulting in loss of signal to the Tx. Most get around this issue by using a power capacitor that is plugged into the Rx to soak up the voltage drop. This is totally dependent upon if your esc can handle the servo though. I have heard that the Hobbywing SCT Pro esc and a few other higher-rated esc's handle Savox servos well. Just letting you know about this, in case you didn't know.

Novak glitch buster Rx capacitor:
https://www.amainhobbies.com/novak-glitch-buster-receiver-capacitor-nov5626/p47992?gclid=CJKK7ObMx9ECFYERgQodqkMEhA

Thanks for the comments. I didn't want to get too carried away with high dollar pieces that I wouldn't want to drive it...

I remembered how much I disliked pulling the wing and body on my old goldpan to swap the battery. I cut the tail off the body, so I can pull it with the wing in place. I got the idea from Jessie Granat's WC from the Race of Champions and found that RC Carbon Works (sorry, NOT Custom Works) already made a tower for the B5M wing mount. The CF strap is a trimmed T4 strap from JConcepts. I am still toying with battery/ESC placement, as I have seen some people liking a shorty run forward in the tray, but others run the shorty rearward with the ESC inline. Once I get an ESC in hand, I will borrow a buddies 4 corner scale setup. I will run a shorty at the track, but would like the flexibility to run a full size stick for bashing.

I picked up a Spectrum capacitor for that very reason. I bench tested with a Mamba Monster X (8A BEC) I had laying around, and I didn't see an issue. My plan is to go with the new Mamba X ESC should they start shipping them soon, which also has a 8A BEC. I just picked up a low profile servo that I might try out, so that might negate the issue all together.

I got the body painted and trimmed, and finally heard back from AE after contacting them a 4th time regarding the faulty parts. New topshaft and axle are on the way. Once that is squared away, I will just be waiting on a motor and ESC.

Some small amount of progress has been made. Finished up mounting the body, swapped the glow-in-the-dark ball cups for black RPM units, tidied up the servo lead, trimmed some foam for the shorty LiPos. Rear tires are glued, fronts aren't. Picked up some PL/AE B4 fronts with some parts, new in the bag, but they aren't true. Not sure if factory defect, or warped from sitting. Either way, I have some new rims to glue up, just a matter of doing it. The body is a simple rattle can job, just using some left over paint from my last SC body. I sprayed some water down before the first coat of blue, it ended up having a neat droplet effect. I will try to get a better pic in some sunlight at some point. Probably out of habit from running my SC10, I reinforced the body with fiberglass tape and Shoe Goo. just adding unnecessary weight to the car, but it should at least keep the tub from rubbing through the paint... I acquired a 4600kV Sidewinder setup with some other parts, so I might throw that in while I am deciding what powerplant will take up permanent residence.

Looks like I lucked out getting it when I did, as most vendors are listing this as discontinued/out of stock

Your buggy looks great! Very clean lines on the paint. The water-effects look awesome. Are you going to put any decals on it? Let me know how you like the Castle Sidewinder 4600kV system. I am interested in one myself.

Thanks!

Not sure on the decals yet...this will be my racing/bashing body, maybe I'll paint the Mirage body that came with kit and do it up nice for when its sitting on the shelf.

Finally glued up the fronts on yellow rims before dinner. Still waiting on some parts from AE, so the sidewinder ended up in my RC10GT brushless conversion "street" truck for the time being. If it stops raining I hope to get some run time on the truck tomorrow. Ill let you know.

Stopped by the LHS yesterday and grabbed some BB springs for the rear as well. Fitted them using Traxxas spring retainers (#3768), but I'm not completely satisfied with the fit...I may eventually go with AVID or some other adapters.

USPS is been especially disappointing lately. My replacements from Associated and and a Tower order were due to arrive Friday, but somehow got rerouted and delayed, and a Kershaw pinion for my street truck has disappeared...

Temporarily installed the 4600kV Sidewinder setup, a 4600 2S shorty and took it for a spin...weather kept me inside on the painted floors at work, which didn't provide any traction. All said and done it sits at just over 1600g. A bit porky, but not too bad, plenty of areas I can reduce weight. I was hoping to head to the track with it, but I I only have B4 rear wheels, so I can't glue up any proper track tires.

What is the rear body mount you're using?