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I've got a 7001 RC10T with the Stealth Trans. I've been running a 5700Kv Castle, which in hind sight is way overkill. It seems to slip pretty hard out of corners and over jumps now that I'm trying to race at my local track even though I've turned down the motor to 50%.

My question is, will a new clutch disc help? I don't think I've ever changed it. Or is this motor simply too powerful for the Stealth to hold?

Now that I'm running at a turf track, I'm considering picking up a Reedy 13T ROAR legal set up. Not sure if this is too powerful also.

Any help would be appreciated.

That motor is indeed overkill for the car. It equates to somewhere between an 8.5 and a 7.5T motor. You can crank the slipper down so it doesn't slip. BUT, I'm wondering if it's the diff slipping instead. If you've de-tuned the motor, and it still slips, it could be the diff.

Yes new pads would help if the old ones are burnt. A 13.5T motor would be a much better bet for the car. That's closer to what I run in my cars.

yellowdatsun wrote: ↑Wed Jul 26, 2017 11:18 am That motor is indeed overkill for the car. It equates to somewhere between an 8.5 and a 7.5T motor. You can crank the slipper down so it doesn't slip. BUT, I'm wondering if it's the diff slipping instead. If you've de-tuned the motor, and it still slips, it could be the diff.

Yes new pads would help if the old ones are burnt. A 13.5T motor would be a much better bet for the car. That's closer to what I run in my cars.

When you say "pads", are you referring to the single clutch disc in the slipper, part number 6585? Or are there more? I cleaned the trans when I added the new motor a few years ago to add clean grease, but I didn't replace any parts.

https://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/cars_and_trucks/RC10T/Team/10t_manualb.pdf

Thanks for your help. Seems like I'll be ordering a 13.5 soon. I was considering the Reedy 600z + 13.5T Sonic combo. I'm open to suggestions however. I've got a lot of catching up to do after being away for 25 years.

If it makes a barking sound the diff is slipping, if it's a smooth high pitched sound it's the slipper (unless the diff is waaayyyy too loose)

If you tighten the slipper all the way and it makes no difference it's definately the diff or a stripped wheel/broken drive pin.

I've successfully raced a 6.5t motor in my stealth so it's more than capable of handling the power.

Make sure the diff bolt head is on the right side of the chassis (spur side) if it's not it can loosen while driving. Whatever you do don't use the black grease or whatever else you have laying around on the diff balls or it will slip.

If the slipper pads are glazed you can either flip them over or scuff them up with an xacto blade or coarse sandpaper to remove the shine.

Thanks. I picked up a diff clutch disc from ebay and I'll give that a shot. It's high pitch, so I feel like it's just the clutch slipping.

I have the same motor in my 10T. The original slipper with thin pad does not have enough surface area to handle the power of newer brushless motors. Even with a 13.5T, you may have trouble adjusting it the way you want it. I highly suggest you upgrade to the B4 top shaft and V2 slipper. You will need new spur gears also, the ones that use two octagon slipper pads. I would check ebay for listing like this one (first one I came across, there may be better deals out there) and get everything in one shot. It is cheaper than buying all the parts separately. I have updated all the slippers in the cars I have brushless motors in. World of a difference.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Team-Associated-B4-2-Transmission-Slipper-Clutch-Spur-81T-21T-Pinion-Gear-B4-1-/222594104684?hash=item33d3a47d6c:g:NNUAAOSw945ZeNDG

as said above. Lock the slipper (tighten it fully), run the car, if it slips, it's the diff.

Once the diff has slipped, you need to more than rebuild it as some parts are shot. Trash the thrust bearing, the thrust balls, the main plate, the main balls, use new ones. Use brake cleaner to clean all parts (including new ones). Rebuild as per instructions, use (any) graphite grease on the thrust, AE stealth lube (there are some even better ones but AE's is cheap and available everywhere) on the main balls.

One exception to the instructions: they tell you to tighten fully then back off. This is a disaster, you will damage the diff plates right away. Tighten progressively until the diff almost doesn't slip any more using a LOT of torque. To check this, lock both outdrives with two screwdrivers/wrenches that you hold in one hand, try to turn the main gear with the other one. it must take some SERIOUS effort to turn the main gear this way.

(credit pic www.overrc.com)



Install the diff back on the car. run it a bit a gently with the slipper fully tight until it breaks in. If it slips after that, tighten it some more.

Then once you are sure the diff is not slipping, adjust slipper following this method:

I'm not sure if the 10T manual tells you or not, been a long time since I've read it, but make sure you compress both the slipper spring and diff spring between a pair of pliars a few times to settle the springs.

That tranny can handle that motor no problem, just follow diff and slipper tuning advice given above!

Thanks for the great replies and information. I replaced the disc last weekend and it seemed to help. I didn't have to have the nut as tight as I did before. The old clutch was glazed over.

I didn't get too many laps in as my ESC seemed to be glitching a bit. I think I overheated it last time out b/c I over-geared it. I've been eyeballing a new Hobbywing ESC and 13.5T motor anyway so I'm legal.

Anymore slipping and I'll get the updated parts suggested above.

I second the upgrade to the v2 slipper. I've bought parts to upgrade most of my older stealths. Sometimes if you do get some slipping, you can rough up the slipper disc(s) with some fine grit sand paper. Also wouldn't hurt to rebuild the diff.

Or just be like me... I pretty much bought a diff rebuild, new diff gears, new idlers and with the v2 slipper upgrade parts... you have a whole new stealth (minus the outdrives and case).