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I'm patiently waiting for delivery of a vintage RC10 Team Car that has been built but never run.

It will be my first RC10, having only had Tamiya and Schumacher before.

I do intend to run it, but not abuse it.

What do I need to know?
Are there any mods I should make?
Are there any problem areas I should look out for?

Can anybody recommend some tyres (and wheels)? I'll mostly be running it on pavement and don't think the kit tyres would last very long. So I'd like to have some on hand that will stand up well to pavement running.

Unused? I'd shelve it and get a runner....but that's just me.

What electronics are you using? It will handle the modern stuff. Proline dirt hawgs should work well for street use, so get some 2.2 inch wheels and save the kit wheels & tires. Pick up the 3/16" rear wheel conversion kit.

I agree shelf it.
If you insist on running it... get a TBG (Team blue groove) lexan under tray to protect the chassis. ebay out of Canada.
Save the stock wheels and tires. Get some JC racing wheels in 2.2" they are in the UK about 10 quid the whole set.
http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/rc10
Tires I'd go for schumacher block rears in blue hard compound. T692
Cut staggers in blue for the front. U6776
The Schumacher tires are available anyware in the UK. and are well priced.

jcwrks wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:02 am Unused? I'd shelve it and get a runner....but that's just me.

What electronics are you using? It will handle the modern stuff. Proline dirt hawgs should work well for street use, so get some 2.2 inch wheels and save the kit wheels & tires. Pick up the 3/16" rear wheel conversion kit.

Electronics are undecided yet. To start with, I have a spare Tamiya TBLE-02S ESC that I'll probably put in it. I don't race at the minute so don't need all the bells and whistles. The car has a vintage Associated motor in it (no idea what exactly). But I'll likely remove that and go with a 17.5T or 13.5T brushless.

Alternatively I might pick up a Hobbyking XCar 60A ESC for it.

Batteries will be the NiMH packs I run in my other cars.

Do I also need the front wheel conversion kit to run 2.2inch wheels?

bluewormx wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:13 am I agree shelf it.
If you insist on running it... get a TBG (Team blue groove) lexan under tray to protect the chassis. ebay out of Canada.
Save the stock wheels and tires. Get some JC racing wheels in 2.2" they are in the UK about 10 quid the whole set.
http://www.jcracingproducts.co.uk/rc10
Tires I'd go for schumacher block rears in blue hard compound.
Cut staggers in blue for the front.
The Schumacher tires are available anyware in the UK. and are well priced.

I can't shelf it. It took me ages to find a Team Car. The only other one I saw was a lot more money and in way worse condition.

I will look after it, I promise!

Already in contact with TBG about the undertray (and a body and tray for my Procat). They don't do the Viper body though.

Thanks for the link to the wheels. Will they fit straight on?

Yeah the jc wheels go straight on and there is no need for any conversion kits.
You can get viper body from penguin in the uk (ebay user haskins2004) great bodies even for current racers...

FYI, if you contact TBG directly, you can save a few dollars vs. using their eBay store.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Wed Sep 06, 2017 12:58 pm FYI, if you contact TBG directly, you can save a few dollars vs. using their eBay store.

Thanks. That's what I'm doing as I want to order a few bits in one go. Although they're a bit slow to respond to emails.

TBG full length RC10 undertray is ordered.

What's the best way to attach it?

Other cars I've had with undertrays, Procat and Avante 2001, the undertray was screwed on, on the Procat, and attached with body clips on the Avante.

Yeah, i noticed they really didn't suggest anything in terms of how to attach that.

I have one myself and was going to attach the front of the tray under a kydex skid bumper I have, then I believe you can use the nose-brace side screws, the rear bulkhead side screws, and up around the back to the motor plate screws (i think). I just haven't got around to it yet.

I've also seen velcro on the side walls of the tub. I have a feeling you might need to be a bit creative. I thought about making some sort of "clips" ... just think of having to take out like 8 screws to get to one or two underneath the tray...

I'm still waiting for the RC10 to be delivered. Fingers crossed it will be today or tomorrow.

In the meantime, I'm thinking again about the wheels and tyres. Those JC Racing wheels are nice in that they bolt straight on, but I'm not overly keen on the spoked design.

They would do as runner wheels but I prefer the dish look of the kit wheels.

So what are the options for kit style wheels?

I've grabbed a PDF of the Team Car manual but can't find anything for the listed wheel part numbers. In fact the rear wheel part number 6802 brings up the rear wheel hex conversion kit.

Personally I've gone with Worlds ReRe style wheels on most of the RC10s I have to. It gives me easier access to wheels and lets me run current rubber. It's more difficult to find "new" wheels and tires to fit the older, larger rear axles. I do have several sets of 3 piece wheels that I keep for the older cars, but they're more for display.

The ReRe wheels come in yellow, and white... the white is dyable too.

lmw94002 wrote: ↑Tue Sep 12, 2017 11:25 am Personally I've gone with Worlds ReRe style wheels on most of the RC10s I have to. It gives me easier access to wheels and lets me run current rubber. It's more difficult to find "new" wheels and tires to fit the older, larger rear axles. I do have several sets of 3 piece wheels that I keep for the older cars, but they're more for display.

The ReRe wheels come in yellow, and white... the white is dyable too.

What parts would I need to fit the world's re-re wheels to a Team Car?

Is it the conversion kits, 6801 and 6802? Anything else needed?

Depends on the drive shafts... if you have bones, 6802 is really all you need to use new wheels I believe.

Should still probably get it to get the new bearings and hub carriers... or you could source those separately if you wanted.

If you have old AE universals... then you need to probably upgrade to the new ReRe CVAs. If you have older MIP CVDs, I think you can just buy new (smaller diameter) axles I believe (I haven't tried it just yet) that can be swapped in. I think they were the B4 axles?

Some folks have said the length of the ReRe CVAs is a tick shorter than it should be to fit the stealth so they use a slightly longer bone from the B44 I believe.

If you search around here, I'm sure the info is somewhere in a thread.

It arrived yesterday




As you can see in the last pic, one rear arms hangs down further than the other. Nothing appears to be binding though.

I plan to take the shocks off and see how the arms hang/travel without those attached and also check the shocks against each other when they're off of the car. If they're not equal then I'll strip them and see what is going on.

Other than that, everything else seems good, other than a bit of dust and some tarnishing on the wing mount wire and some servo tape residue to remove. The transmission and diff seem smooth, motor (a Reedy Mr J) doesn't look to have been run.

The receiver and servo are of no use to me so they will be coming out. An Alturn High Speed servo will be going in along with a receiver for my Core RC radio.

I've had a look, using the part number from the manual, for the front shock .71 shock shafts. I haven't found that exact part but I have found other Associated .71 shock shafts - will they do the job?

I have also seen that there are shock rebuild kits available. Which ones do I need for the shocks on this car (front and rear)?

Drive shafts are UJ's so I need to change those to be able to use re-re worlds wheels on the rear don't I? What about at the front?