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Anyone know if someone is making repro battery cell match decals?
And/or if someone can help out explaining the different data on a match decal. If i decide to make my own.

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tamiyadan wrote: ↑Fri Nov 03, 2017 10:51 am looking at the second cell it claims it is a 1200mah, yet tested back at 865amps right off the bat it is garbage.

Kind of weird, 272 seconds at 20 amps works out to over 1500mah, but I dont know what else 865 would refer to.

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Haha, i read it as mah, i didnt see it said amps. At any rate, capacity by seconds is only about 10% lower than the other pack.

Just amazed by the depth of the presentation to my question tamiyadan. This is more then I could wish for.
I really appreceiate this. Thank you so much.
I have fount a suitable dot font (Dotrice) and have the luck that the office i work in has self adhesive A4 paper.

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Thats still going on today Dan. I heard recently of a battery manufacturer putting random extras (washers, etc) in the battery packages so that racers can't just pick out the heavy ones. I figure since you covered just about everything relating to the original question, its ok to go a little off topic

I did as you said Dan. Winged it a bit with the numbers.
Hoping I'm not too far off. I am satisfied with the end result even though i suck at soldering.

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tamiyadan wrote: ↑Mon Nov 06, 2017 8:00 pm battery bars are a pain because you need like a 60-100Watt soldering iron. the metal of the cells suck the heat out so fast that the solder goes solid just touching the braid or extra rosin core so you get these crappy cold welds.

labels look nice.

Thanks Dan
I made the decision to get me a new better soldering iron. This has been going on too long now

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