RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I've got my old beater RC10 set up for the turf track and I'm taking it with me today to the track to put in some laps before the race. Nothing too fancy and definitely nothing too shiny. I've seen quite a few buggys on here that are still raced and being built to race at vintage races, but from what I've seen on youtube videos, the tracks look to be designed "vintage friendly". Not a lot of big air jumps, etc. I did a little work on my faithful basher buggy to see how it will do on a modern turf track. The xl5 esc and motor wire plug are hardly racebred equipment but I want to see how a brushed motor does before dropping in a brushless combo. The motor is a 14t quad which has good power and the xl5 can easily handle it with the added benefit of having lipo protection so I don't frag my new batteries. The wheels are all modern 12mm hex mount 2.2 with Schumacher turf tires all around. Front end is b4.2 components mounted on RPM arms. The rest is pretty much stock RC10. She's a B chassis with a stealth trans. When I drop a brushless setup in later on, I'll upgrade to a V2 slipper. Shocks are filled with 35w and ride height is set at 22mm in the front and 25mm in the rear. This is high for a turf track, but I want a little more forgiveness on the big jumps to start out. I had most of this stuff laying around except for the tires. I think it will be fun to see how it performs. I'll post later how it did. It's time to finish my breakfast and get my gear together for a day at the track.

For my education - what body is that?

Not sure who originally made them. You can get a reproduction one from TBG. They refer to them as an "Unser" body. I got this one in a box of parts a while back.

Thanks

Nice buggy. I have not made it to the track with my re-re worlds.

Good luck Basher.
If you're like me and remember watching Al and little Al race at Indy bitd, then you know why that body is called Unser. Classic!

Well, they didn't end up racing today because it was new years eve and not enough drivers showed up. I laid down some practice laps with my race truck and then took the ol' gold pan out for a spin. Picture tells the story. Did I mention these tracks were unforgiving? I didn't get straight enough before launching off one of the bigger jumps and my front shock paid the price. Luckily I have plenty of spare parts. Before I take it out next weekend I'm going to change the shock oil for some thicker stuff and dial in the steering better. I think it would do better with more toe-in on the rear too.

That's an odd part to break. I will typically break a pivot block. Was it vintage nylon or rere?

I took my black pan out today and quickly realized I have way too much weight in the back! Every jump I was landing butt first. I think I’m going to be moving the battery as far forward as possible now...

Ucsdmutt wrote: ↑Sun Dec 31, 2017 10:09 pm I took my black pan out today and quickly realized I have way too much weight in the back! Every jump I was landing butt first. I think I’m going to be moving the battery as far forward as possible now...

Try mounting your shorty pack transversly, and put it on the middle set of holes. I ran my TQ10 like that and I was amazed at how level it flew.

Ucsdmutt wrote: ↑Sun Dec 31, 2017 10:09 pm I took my black pan out today and quickly realized I have way too much weight in the back! Every jump I was landing butt first. I think I’m going to be moving the battery as far forward as possible now...

Moving the weight forward will definitely help. Also, if you aren't already doing so, you might try adjusting your throttle control as it relates to the jumps. Maybe try releasing the trigger the moment the rear wheels leave the jump and even tap the break a little while the car is in the air. Also, if you run a lot of wing angle, maybe try reducing that angle a little. Anyway, these changes have worked for me. Good luck with your next race.

I prefer to setup the car correctly, at least as much as possible, instead of trying to compensate with driving techniques. I've been going through this learning curve while setting up my T4.2 for turf racing. Once I got the proper tires, better servo, correct ride height, battery location, etc worked out, my lap times dropped significantly and were more consistent. I think moving the battery forward and going a little heavier on the shock oil wt. would be a big improvement. I could bolt on some big bores, shave down the chassis, throw in a hot brushless setup and some nice carbon fiber parts and pieces, but I'm not racing it. I just wanted to get a regular old gold pan setup as best as possible for a modern track for some fun laps on practice day or whatever. To give you an idea of the track I use, right in the middle there is a jump that sits 6-8 feet in front of a tabletop that is roughly 8-10 ft. long and about 2 ft. high. Ideally, you want to hit the first jump and clear everything and come down the backside of the tabletop. There is only about 4-5 ft of track in front of it all after making a hairpin turn, so you can't carry much speed leading up to it. For a modern brushless race car or truck, this isn't much of a problem, but vintage cars start to show their age.

I might try moving the battery perpendicular, although I don’t think the non world tub has the holes. In fact there were no holes for the current setup, I used mounting tape! I didn’t want to drill holes in this vintage tub...

My tub is hammered but straight, so I don't mind drilling wherever.

So after moving my battery, the buggy flies way more level. I did notice that off one of the big jumps, the tail end was being kicked up off the lip. I went with some thicker shock oil and decided a body with a wing might help control "in flight" stability. I went ahead and threw some paint at a fresh body in my favorite paint scheme and mounted a BRP high flow wing on the back. I figured I would take a pic of it, because after a day at the track on Sunday, it will never look this good again.

Nice rig, how did it go at the track?