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So, I fitted a #6801 front axle conversion kit, including securing the axles to the hinge pins with the provided set screws, then found one of the axles was out of spec and wouldn't accept the wheel bearings.

I have a replacement axle but, coming to swap it in, I can't remove the set screw from the axle. None of my driver's fit. The 0.05 is too small, 1/16 too big as is a 1.5mm one.

Obviously I fitted them somehow, but can't remember what I used.

What size driver should be used for those screws?

Should be an .050.

yeah, should be .050, you might have to really jam the allen in there to get it to catch, they are so small they suck to work with. if you have a cheap allen key, it could also be stripped out, they aren't very strong.

In that case I think it's screwed (excuse the pun).

The 0.05 doesn't have any effect at all.

Looks like I'll have to get a drill bit in the Dremel and try to drill the screw out without damaging the hinge pin.

I only need to loosen it enough to be able to get the pin out. So frustrating!

Sometimes this will work...

Take a .050 allen key and put some CA glue on the tip of it, insert it into the grub screw and wait till it cures. Try to remove it.

NomadRacer wrote: ↑Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:36 am Sometimes this will work...

Take a .050 allen key and put some CA glue on the tip of it, insert it into the grub screw and wait till it cures. Try to remove it.

Giving that a try. Just waiting for the glue to cure.

Glue didn't work and I don't have the necessary parts to mount a small enough drill bit in my Dremel.

I do have some spare steering knuckles and hub carriers. Just ordered some spare king pins. So worst case I can rebuild with new parts.

They do make drill bits to back out stripped screws, that might work?

0.050" is really small so an easy out that size will be super brittle. If the 0.050 is too small, force the 1.5mm in there, that should be 0.058". If that doesn't work, you can support the c hub and carefully tap out the pin, it will likely damage the pin and possibly axle and c-hub.

If your trying to use a L shaped Allen, but a quality set first. Chances are the wrench is more stripped than the head of the screw. You will continue to have issue if your using the cheap stuff.

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2018 1:35 pm If your trying to use a L shaped Allen, but a quality set first. Chances are the wrench is more stripped than the head of the screw. You will continue to have issue if your using the cheap stuff.

I have a reasonable quality driver set, not top quality but we'll above the cheap stuff.

I've tried getting a 1.5mm in there but it won't go.

I am currently waiting for JB weld to cure on a cheap Allen that I've JB welded into the screw, in the hope that the JB weld holds enough to get the screw loose.

The axle is already toast, but I'd like to salvage the pin, steering knuckle and vintage c hub if I can. I just need a couple of turns on the screw to get enough room to get the pin out.

I'm not going to fit the screws going forward. The original Team Car didn't have them in that location. I didn't fit them when I originally fitted the axles, then I thought that maybe I should. Regretting doing so now.

Frustrating thing is, I didn't do them up with excessive force. So I'm not sure at what point the screws got chewed up. The other axle was in a similar state but I managed to use a 1.4mm screwdriver to get that one out.

Perhaps, seeing as I've had problems with an axle and now the screws, I just got a duff conversion kit.

If your going to keep at this hobby, be it racing or collecting re-building RC10's buy quality drivers: MIP and Hudy are the best, and will save you allot of heart ache.

Yup, and I’d be willing to bet I could get that partially stripped screw out with my old MIP driver right now

GoMachV wrote: ↑Thu Jan 04, 2018 3:51 pm Yup, and I’d be willing to bet I could get that partially stripped screw out with my old MIP driver right now

Really, the bits are that long? Why didn't you do this in the first place instead of letting him struggle?!


I would agree that MIP and Hudy are probably the best, but I also can't remember the last time I stripped a screw, so I don't personally feel a need for those yet. I do think that drivers with a machined tip, especially on 2mm / 5/64" and smaller, is pretty much essential though.

I guess I was just burned by the “decent” ones- my Hobby King set and my Associated set were both garbage. Stripped screw heads like crazy. Never an issue with the MIP. I ran the Thorp back in the day, essentially the same exact tool also with no issues except getting greedy once and snapping a tip off