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This should be my last Worlds build. Should.....

So, this one is going to be a modern replica of the rc10 Mark Pavidis used to win the '95 Reedy International race. Since I am starting off with a new kit, I probably won't take all that long to build. But, there is a lot of cool chassis mods that I am looking forward to getting into on this, and that will surely slow it down.

And the 'ole box-o-parts......

Are the mods to this car similar or the same as what Brian Kinwald did to his World's car?

A few things are similar, like shaving down the tops of the rear arms and some of the tub mods like cutting the sides down. But that's about it.

Held up on other builds, so I figured I'd get rolling on this one. Shortened the battery box, shaved down the rear arms, did the alterations to the rear bulkhead, and dyed a bunch of it black. I'm not super happy with how the bulkhead came out, so I may get another and redo it. On the original, Mark opened the bulkhead up along side of the wing tube so the motor wires could pass through it. Well, I wanted to do the same thing, but running brushless, I now have (3) 12g wires to deal with. Because of the added length of the slot, the wires are gonna be very close to the ballstud/ballcup and I worry about them touching when the suspension compresses. But, I guess we will see.

I also got the trans assembled. Not pictured though. It's currently going through a 3,000 rpm break in period on the drill press. Should have just used the US case.

I've wondered what it meant by "shaving down the rear arms". Looking good!

Got the tower mods done. Countersunk the rear mounting holes and removed the outer upper mounting holes front and rear.
And then, started rolling on the chassis mods. More to come on that later.

Dang, looks like some big cutting going on

Yeah, this one gets cut up quite a bit........ and I just got started and already slipped once.

It's not horrible, but it still bugs me. Gonna try touching it up. But first we'll see if I slip anywhere else.

lLooking like interesting mods... were they only aesthetics bitd, or is there a structural reason for them?

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 9:18 am Yeah, this one gets cut up quite a bit........ and I just got started and already slipped once.

That's twice in two projects... your average is going down...

Yeah, i have to stop cutting up parts when I should be in bed sleeping.

As for the mods, I'm sure weight savings was one. Get rid of what you don't need. Aesthetics are probably another, guys making the car their own with personal touches. But cutting the tub sides I would say could be used a tuning aid. The more you cut off the more the chassis flexes. Same with the rear arms.

Spending more time with Mr. Dremel tonight. Got the motor plate finished up.
Then I moved on to the front of the tub and nose plate. On the original car, Mark moved the center screw in the nose plate forward so he could push the servo further forward and shortened the back of the plate. So I drilled and tapped a new center hole in the plate and counter sunk the hole in the tub. Hit the other 2 a little harder while I was at it.
And then made the cuts to the back edge.
Now I can move on to the front of the nose plate...........

OK, nose plate is done...... and so am I. Tomorrow is another day.

scr8p wrote: ↑Tue Jan 23, 2018 9:33 pm On the original car, Mark moved the center screw in the nose plate forward so he could push the servo further forward and shortened the back of the plate.

That, i cannot agree more with, I've always wondered why there's so much material on the nose plates. Then again, 2wd's in the 80's and 90's were all about the rear end, the front always kinda came as an afterthought, really... it was all about putting down "some" power, steering could come way after that

He also moved the battery box forward. But since it's a rere tub, it's already forward more than an original tub so I figured I'd let those alone. But I may change my mind. I'll leave that to the last thing before I start assembly.

Alright, tub mods are done. Took an 1/8" off the sides, rounded off the front edge, and moved the battery box ahead. Now if i had some blue 8-32 screws I could start throwing parts on it.