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Hi Guys

can someone please kindly link the exact, right product that works well to dye old AE parts in black? Ideally a straight link to the manufacturer's product, but anything ebay works, as long as they don't take $29.99 to ship to Europe like they usually do

I only have one experience of dying parts many many years ago and it was a total failure, I ended up sharpi-ing the heck out the parts that were supposed to turn black, despite religiously following the official procedure - so this must have been the wrrong product (I CANNOT admit I could have done something wrong myself )

And if, after linking the right product, some kind soul could list here the correct way to do it, I'd be very grateful

Thank you,
Paul

I don’t know how to link you to the best place to get it where your at, but the part number is 02227 and it’s called Rit Dyemore Graphite. They are all over eBay but no idea with shipping which is the best price. It’s also on Amazon but I’m not sure if you have Amazon


You will dilute it with water, I use about a half a gallon of water to the entire bottle of dye. Some people salt it, I don’t. Use an old pot as it’s hard to get the dye out. You want it right at the edge of boiling (boiling is great but messy haha) and expect it to take 10-30 minutes.

The regular black dye is really a really really dark purple/red, so in certain light you can see the red shades.

I think Jeff pointed you in the right direction. I just bought some of the dyemore graphite to try.

I also use an old pot on my outside grille burner and heat till just about boiling, but not boiling.

I just use the black powder.

scr8p wrote: ↑Thu Jan 25, 2018 12:02 pm I just use the black powder.

Yeah if you can find the old stuff that’s great. Not sure how to ensure you don’t get the new stuff though and I personally have had no success with it. I’ve dyed a lot of parts and that new stuff twice failed me.

I recently bought a bottle from Walmart and it worked just like the stuff from 1990. If it comes out purple, you either need to boil it longer or add more dye. All of my parts come out pretty black looking.

The Rit Dyemore graphite is my choice since being recommended by GoMachV. I use a drop or three of dishwash soap in the dye bath. This breaks the surface tension.

Everybody has their own method, posts of that can go on for hours/days.

I go for the high concentration of dye to water ratio. In a dedicated stainless steel 2qt sauce pan I pour half the bottle, 3.5 oz or 100 ml and then fill the rest of the pot with filtered water. On a stove top,hot plate, grill, or primitive fire pit, bring the dye to a simmer. I the add the dish soap liquid. I use a metal strainer to keep my parts off the bottom of the pot, that's by choice, so all the small parts are easy to remove. I let me parts "simmer" for an hour or so if it's a wheel or another big part. Small stuff takes dye quicker so 1/2 hour simmer is cool. I remove from heat source and let set in the bath overnight. Next morning I rinse the parts in cold water, scrubbing them with an old toothbrush and soap. rinsing again till clear.

That's about it for how I've been doing it.

FYI, Walmart is probably the best/cheapest place to get more RIT dyes. For some dumb reason though, the one 1/2 mi away doesn't stock the Synthetic Dyemore. Another a few miles away stocks both but in separate areas. Anyway, order online and pickup via walmart is usually the fastest/easiest that I've found.

I dyed these white nylon Pro-Line wheels with plain-Jane black Rit Dye and I didn't get any purplish or reddish colors. I used the powder one that comes in a small box.

Coelacanth wrote: ↑Thu Jan 25, 2018 1:36 pm I dyed these white nylon Pro-Line wheels with plain-Jane black Rit Dye and I didn't get any purplish or reddish colors. I used the powder one that comes in a small box.

I'll say it again, the formula has CHANGED. IF he can get a box of the OLD stuff, yes! Its awesome! WE used it a lot and it was GREAT! How can he be sure to get the OLD formula? He CANT. So....thats why we recommend Dyemore.

I've heard good things about dyemore, but haven't tried it myself. I use the black liquid, just bought this one from the grocery store when they restocked so I don't think it's that old. I bring my temp up on the stove, but not to boiling. I use a strainer that suspends the parts and keeps them off the direct heat of the bottom of the pot. I usually dump half the bottle in the pot and add water until they are an inch or so above the suspended parts. Works great. By keeping your water below boiling and the parts up off the bottom of the pot, no damage can really be done. I'll leave mine for 30 min. or so, come back and check on it, stir the parts around a little, If they're not done and still have a little purple or red tone to them, I'll add a little water to make up for the evaporation and leave them for another 30. min. or so. I do this often with 100% success rate on nylon parts.

I've had good success with the bottles of liquit dye. I use 1 bottle per pot of water and save it in a jar after for next time. I just bring it to a boil and dump parts in. Continue at just boilng for 15 - 30 mins then turn stove off and let cool naturally.

Rinse parts and your good to go.

Boiling opens the pores of the plastic and letting it cool down draws more dye into the nylon while it cools.

Thanks so much for the input, guys... you are irreplaceable

I've just ordered this and will report on how my silly self can make it work (or not)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rit-DyeMore-for-Synthetic-Fibers/112585577424?var=412995353349&epid=2254447866&hash=item1a369f93d0:g:NogAAOSwPWtZ0V3o

I will follow the priceless advice in this thread!

And in the past, yes, the stuff I tried to dye came out purple-ish... I have never tried since.

Thank you!

Paul

The good thing is purplish parts can always be re-dyed