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While I'm waiting parts for my other cars I coudn't resist taking on a new project. I suppose this is late model World's car with all black parts, except rear arm mounts.

worlds1 by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

World's Car by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

Again following the same formula as with others I took it apart to clean it.

WorldsCar by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

WorldsCar by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

Bottom is not in bad shape, actually it looks worse in the pictures than it actually is. Everything else seems to be OK as well except the differential. This is my first stealth transmission so I don't know how it should be but it is not smooth. It feels that there are some notches or something. Should it turn freely or are there always some issues with these?

I will make this a driver if all goes as planned. I have a brand new rerelease chassis and nose plate to build this on so the original will stay in this shape. I will also put 2.2" rerelease wheels so I can use modern tyres.

I'd tear down the transmission and inspect the diff, rebuild with new diff balls and diff rings if needed.

Hi Tomi and welcome to the boards. You're fortunate to own a real RC10 Worlds car; a legit piece of RC history. I have a few re-release worlds cars and one worlds runner that I've pieced together (is it legit if it was owner-assembled from various sources and not from AE's box? I'd say probably not). Anyway, as Nomad has suggested, you'll probably need to disassemble, inspect and clean that Stealth gear box. It should operate very smoothly as there are no issues with the vintage item that I'm aware of.

Thanks! In my opinion your pieced-together car is as legit as any other car. I'm really happy I found this one as I was only looking for Graphite car. It did not come with box or manual but really would like to get those too. All in all the car feels much more solid than any other of my RC10's. I don't know if these are better made or is it just that this has been driven less, but there really is less slack in almost all steering and suspension parts.

I downloaded the manual so next thing I will do is disassemble the diff and see how it looks like.

TomiS wrote: ↑Thu Feb 08, 2018 10:40 am Thanks! In my opinion your pieced-together car is as legit as any other car. I'm really happy I found this one as I was only looking for Graphite car. It did not come with box or manual but really would like to get those too. All in all the car feels much more solid than any other of my RC10's. I don't know if these are better made or is it just that this has been driven less, but there really is less slack in almost all steering and suspension parts.

I downloaded the manual so next thig I will do is disassemble the diff and see how it looks like.

One small advantage to having a pieced-together Worlds car is that it virtually eliminates the whole "should I shelve it and preserve it for future generations or just run it" quandary. I also have a Graphite (6-gear) but yours is in much better condition. As for boxes and manuals, you're probably already aware they can often be found on ebay. Prices are all over the map however. Sometimes I wonder if spending 50, 100 bucks or more for a bunch of old paper and cardboard is completely insane but I reckon it's another segment of the RC collector market. I've always tried to keep my original packaging in good condition but it's tough sometimes. Perhaps one should venture into the vintage RC packaging reproduction business.

Yes, I don't feel like paying 50 or even more for a cardboard box so I can live without it. But then again if I had the box I probably would not sell it for 50 either. I have now ordered new balls for the diff and while waiting for them to arrive I assembled the car with the original chassis. Using rere chassis just didn't feel right. I don't know if this should have black rear arm mounts but as it came with white ones, I used them.

RC10 World's Car by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

RC10 World's Car by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

RC10 World's Car by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

I would dye the mounts black just so all of the plastic matches.

I tend to agree since those mounts are the only white pieces on the car.

I finally got all the parts for this so now it's time to make it a driver. On the diff I have new balls and it's a lot smoother than before. I will use original slipper for now as the track is slippery and motor is only 13.5T. Or is B4 slipper mandatory?

RC10 World's Car stealth by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

I have rerelease rear axles, #9911 CVA's and #7222 front axles. I can use the blue spacers like they are meant to be used on the outside due to longer CVA's. I'll try to find a small front bumper before driving it just to protect the nose plate as it seems to get hit quite often with my skills.

OK, here's my first attempt on painting with rattle can. It's OK from 10ft but in reality quite bad. I have to invest on airbrush as I will paint more for sure.

Everything was OK up to this point.
RC10 World's Car by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

But then I messed up with masking tape and paint got sucked under the tape and messed all the lines. I tried to hide the worst spots with decals and now it is good enough for a runner.

RC10 Worlds by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

RC10 Worlds by Tomi Seppälä, on Flickr

I went for a drive today with the car and I still can’t drive. But the car is starting to feel good so I think I will learn some day. 13.5 motor seems OK, maybe a bit on the slow side but I will start playing with gearing and timing when I get more confident at driving.

I broke another servo though. I have now used all my old servos so I will have to look into modern stuff. If I get strong enough metal gear servo should I still use servo saver? What would be the most cost efficient servo to use?

And looks like I will get to paint another body soon if I keep rolling the car like I do now.

with metal gears you won't need a servosaver.

Savöx, Spektrum and Protek are super (and expensive).

Also www.hobbyking.com has decent quality servo's that won't break the bank.

yep, turnigy's servos (hobbyking's brand) hold their own vs. more expensive ones, even on the track.

Servo savers are not that needed with modern servos... remember that something's gonna give anyway, and these could be your car parts

Your paint job is not that bad, really! I've done much much worse

the original stealth diff should be silky smooth after a rebuild - you definetely have to use the right fluids though. My recipe is kyosho ball diff lube on the main balls, and AE black grease on the thrust. do NOT tighten fully and back out as suggested by the instructions : instead, tighten little by little until the diff feels fine. Run a few laps, then adjust again.

B4 slipper with 13.5 is not a must, the stock slipper is more than OK. if you go B4 slipper, then go V2 right away, the tuning window is wider

Not to challenge the gurus above but it won't hurt to run another servo saver on the newer servos. I still run one (when I run anyway ) just to keep the parts breakage down. The force has to go somewhere and it might as well be into the spring. I'd rather break a servo saver than an arm, c-hub or steering knuckle. Thats just MY driving style though

Todd

p.s. and to go along with Paul above...I've done some rather bad paint jobs so that one isn't that bad

klavy69 wrote: ↑Mon Mar 05, 2018 9:15 pm Not to challenge the gurus above but it won't hurt to run another servo saver on the newer servos. I still run one (when I run anyway ) just to keep the parts breakage down. The force has to go somewhere and it might as well be into the spring. I'd rather break a servo saver than an arm, c-hub or steering knuckle. Thats just MY driving style though

Exactly - sorry if my message above was unclear.

you don't have to use a SERVO-saver with a proper modern servo as those don't need to be saved anyway anymore

these things should be called STEERING-savers now