RC10 - FF10 -Done-

General discussion, builds/restorations, etc...
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GoMachV
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by GoMachV »

Possibly try making a rack bar which should require less cutting and possibly could correct geometry with it a bit also.
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sandkil
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

GoMachV wrote: Fri Oct 30, 2020 12:40 pm Possibly try making a rack bar which should require less cutting and possibly could correct geometry with it a bit also.
Rack bar is a good idea and as you say it will fix the geometry a bit. Thanx!

I'm also tinkering with the rear wheel axles. I'm not a hundred percent sure what way to go.
Here's one way to do it. Just hoping the aluminum axle holds up and with the B4 servo link the tracking can be adjusted.
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toe.jpg
out.jpg

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romulus22
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by romulus22 »

Love the creative fabricating!

For your swing arm axle, what about making new arms and putting a brake/bend behind the axle and running a screw into the back of it where you have the ball joint. Along with the bolt going through the king pin hole that should eliminate twist and shouldn’t get slop over time.

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Re: RC10 FF

Post by tecnica2001 »

Awesome work👍

Not a fan of the FF concept itself, but I’m looking forward to seeing how this turns out 😁👍
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sandkil
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

romulus22 wrote: Fri Nov 06, 2020 11:58 pm Love the creative fabricating!

For your swing arm axle, what about making new arms and putting a brake/bend behind the axle and running a screw into the back of it where you have the ball joint. Along with the bolt going through the king pin hole that should eliminate twist and shouldn’t get slop over time.
Thanks Todd,
I could do that, but really makes things critical as I have to get the tracking/toe in right whilst machining.
What I might do is add a 10x10 mm profile screwed into place in the arm and with a oval hole for the ball joint/screw locking the toe in , but still have the possibility to adjust and a more rigid installation.

Faceniating how things evolve while discussing the subject.
Appreciate all your feedback a lot.

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sandkil
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

No turning back.
Chassis is drilled and we have what looks like a working steering setup. Some minor adjustments left, but overall happy with it.
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sandkil
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

Hind legs in the making (prototype)

Brain melt. The more offset on ball joint mounts the more negative camber with compressed suspension. Is this a bad thing with trailing arms?
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sandkil
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

Sacrilegious some may say!
I’ve had this Novak NER-3FM in a drawer for quite some time due to that someone before me had cut the housing around the crystal and it looked like crap.
Finally found use for it.
Mounted a Futaba 2.4 GHz R204GF-E circuit board in the Novak housing.
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sandkil
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

I think the chassis has reached some point of.. done.
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sandkil
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

Fabricated stanchions for the upper chassis plate. They are on the thin side, but then again there’s six of em plus the battery box.
The battery box will be fixed with double sided tape to chassis and screwed into the upper deck.
Composite Craft Teflon tape under steering rack for smooth operation.
Redcat 76mm (end to end) dog bones are on the short side.. might need to find 80mm.
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Mr. ED
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by Mr. ED »

Those universals don't look anything too short to me. Too long maybe... how do they move when you compress the suspension?

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Re: RC10 FF

Post by romulus22 »

sandkil wrote: Thu Nov 19, 2020 4:34 pm Brain melt. The more offset on ball joint mounts the more negative camber with compressed suspension. Is this a bad thing with trailing arms?
How are you attaching the arms to the turnbuckles?

Obviously I don’t have your parts in front of me to try it. But, I believe, if you space the rear/more inboard turnbuckle up and mounted it on top of the arm instead of inline as pictured, that should help with some of the camber during the sweep.

Obviously test it and don’t just take my word for it. Hope it works

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Re: RC10 FF

Post by Lavigna »

Just amazing craftsmanship. Thanks for the great info and pictures.

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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

Mr. ED wrote: Thu Nov 26, 2020 6:45 pm Those universals don't look anything too short to me. Too long maybe... how do they move when you compress the suspension?
Hmm too long!?
the pins on the dog bone barely engages the outdrive. I do not wish to fling them to neighbouring zip-code when powering out of corner with suspension fully "extended"

Pic is when suspension is fully compressed.
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Re: RC10 FF

Post by sandkil »

romulus22 wrote: Fri Nov 27, 2020 3:25 am
sandkil wrote: Thu Nov 19, 2020 4:34 pm Brain melt. The more offset on ball joint mounts the more negative camber with compressed suspension. Is this a bad thing with trailing arms?
How are you attaching the arms to the turnbuckles?

Obviously I don’t have your parts in front of me to try it. But, I believe, if you space the rear/more inboard turnbuckle up and mounted it on top of the arm instead of inline as pictured, that should help with some of the camber during the sweep.

Obviously test it and don’t just take my word for it. Hope it works
Thanks romulus22,
I will test various setups. I'm not that happy with this set up. Does not look good and might try to machine new axles all together...
Was thinking of having a set screw as adjuster of camber... We'll see

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