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I’m looking to plug a motor into my rc10 and drive! I have the old green and silver Team motor but that thing was stupid slow 20 years ago! I included a shot of my esc so you don’t recommend something that will fry my stuff. I’m thinking something along the lines of a 14-17 turn (if my recollections of motor speeds are accurate).

yes, something around 15-16 turns would be pretty nice. The issue is that you need to find a brushed motor that is still in good shape or still available. There are hardly any brushed motor manufacturers for r/c application as the industry has moved toward brushless systems. Plenty of stock type or higher turn motors are around but mostly for rock crawler (slow/torque).

your best bet is probably ebay for a brushed motor.

for about the price of an old brushed modified motor, I use this system:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-roar-approved-1-10th-stock-class-brushless-esc-and-motor-combo-17-5t.html

it runs pretty well, certainly fast enough to break parts, but you could use a hotter motor also:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-roar-approved-1-10th-stock-class-brushless-esc-and-motor-combo-13-5t.html

either I think would be a good alternative.

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2018 10:04 am yes, something around 15-16 turns would be pretty nice. The issue is that you need to find a brushed motor that is still in good shape or still available. There are hardly any brushed motor manufacturers for r/c application as the industry has moved toward brushless systems. Plenty of stock type or higher turn motors are around but mostly for rock crawler (slow/torque).

your best bet is probably ebay for a brushed motor.

for about the price of an old brushed modified motor, I use this system:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-roar-approved-1-10th-stock-class-brushless-esc-and-motor-combo-17-5t.html

it runs pretty well, certainly fast enough to break parts, but you could use a hotter motor also:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-roar-approved-1-10th-stock-class-brushless-esc-and-motor-combo-13-5t.html

either I think would be a good alternative.

I didn't realize that brushed motors were on their way out (my sons traxxas slash uses a 12T motor I think).... I have a couple stock motors I guess I could plug into it for free so maybe I'll just do that. It sucks because I have a few empty cans, resistors and several armitures, but I have no idea how to build them. I took one that was actually assembled and took it apart years ago to see how it worked....now I have no assembled mod motors On top of that my dad did all the motor work and so I know next to nothing about them other than a couple that have the amount of turns or winds written on them. It was cool back then, but now I'd prefer to have whole assembled motors I can run!

I think there's an old Trinity Monster motor in a lathe, I'll probably try that or the tired green machine that's in my 10T. Any recommendations for cheap branded mod motors on ebay? Nothing too crazy fast... other than new brushes, anything I should do to the old motors before I put them in?

Hello again - As already highlighted in the other similar topic you started here:

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=78&t=43144

Lonestar wrote: ↑Mon Jun 04, 2018 9:41 am Oh - and I just came back from a vintage meet where I went with 5 cars... 3 brushed, 2 brushless. The only ones that let me down were the brushed. the brushless kept ticking all day... food for thought

Do as suggested by @jwscab - go brushless unless you have very good reasons to remain brushed. Brushed is fine, but for running in 2018 there is no reason not to go BL. Like, you can stick to ADSL if you really want, but everyone will recommend you use broadband instead...

Lastly - we are gentlemen here. We try to help kindly, and politely, and without expecting anything in return. Still, our motto is:

if you have brushed motors in pieces, they go back together quite easily.

the motor has the following pieces:
motor can with magnets and bearing or bushing.
armature with nice clean commutator
endbell with bearing or bushing
brush pair
retaining ring
2 screws

there can be some washers that go on the armature shafts, usually a plastic one that goes up on the commutator end.

so from left to right you assemble like this:

motor can>>armature>>retaining ring>>commutator washer>>endbell

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2018 11:35 am if you have brushed motors in pieces, they go back together quite easily.

the motor has the following pieces:
motor can with magnets and bearing or bushing.
armature with nice clean commutator
endbell with bearing or bushing
brush pair
retaining ring
2 screws

there can be some washers that go on the armature shafts, usually a plastic one that goes up on the commutator end.

so from left to right you assemble like this:

motor can>>armature>>retaining ring>>commutator washer>>endbell

I think the biggest concern I had was the lid had a positive and negative symbols but the can didn't so I wasn't sure if I had things together correctly....I'll try my hand at it tonight...thanks!

Lonestar wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2018 10:45 am Lastly - we are gentlemen here. We try to help kindly, and politely, and without expecting anything in return. Still, our motto is:

I appreciate every bit of information given to me and I'll try and keep that in mind

if you are using a modified motor(which will have the retaining ring and screws), it doesn't really matter which way the endbell is put on, but it does matter how it is oriented in relation to the magnets.

the retaining ring has scallops cut in it, which align with punchouts in the can. you place the ring through and then rotate it so the punchouts hold the ring in place. At this point, 0 timing will be with the retaining screws lined up to be directly in between the magnets. from there, regardless of motor rotation, you have 0 timing. if the motor is spinning the wrong direction, swap the motor leads so that is spins as desired. Then to advance the timing, you loosen the endbell screws and turn the endbell the opposite direction of the motor rotation, ie, if the motor is spinning clockwise, you rotate the endbell counterclockwise. Timing will be in degrees and usually falls between 0 and 45 degree. more advance will wear the motor quicker and build heat. You should run some, maybe 10-15 degrees, but there is a whole library of tuning and timing information out there and depends on lots of variable to find the 'sweet' spot. it's not super critical other than you wouldn't have peak performance.

Has anyone here ever tried one of these Reedy Radon motors? I have one from an RTR but I've never ran it. It's 17 turn and pretty cheap.

I haven't used the Radon but I have several of the GoolRc brushed motors and they run great, especially for $8-12!

I recently bought a GoolRc motor/ESC but I haven't ran it either. I went through a phase lately of buying electronics of all kinds that seemed like a good buy for use in some future project. Most of these items are sitting in boxes awaiting a vehicle to install them into.

XLR8 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2018 2:53 pm I recently bought a GoolRc motor/ESC but I haven't ran it either. I went through a phase lately of buying electronics of all kinds that seemed like a good buy for use in some future project. Most of these items are sitting in boxes awaiting a vehicle to install them into.

Reminds me of pretty much everyone of us at some point Then you realize prices keep dropping and stuff is available forever and you stop purchasing electronics "in advance"

(don't do that with AE re-re parts, though!)

Also, keep in mind that brushed motors with Lipos wear faster... more current easily available, and more voltage, too...

Again - experienced all kinds of issues trying to run "Fast" with brushed mills and lipos a few days ago on my vintage cars. The brushless ones kept ticking all day

You can get an acceptable brushless combo for $50 - I know that's $30 more than just a brushed mill which you can use with your existing speedo. Remember brushed motors need maintenance, lathes, new brushes, etc. their performance drops drastically when worn out, a 12x2 feels like a 17x2 when it needs a cut badly, which is rather regularly

XLR8 wrote: ↑Wed Jun 06, 2018 2:44 pm Has anyone here ever tried one of these Reedy Radon motors? I have one from an RTR but I've never ran it. It's 17 turn and pretty cheap.

the LHS sells a crapload of these since they are the only brushed motor besides the traxxas titan that he can get his hands on to sell affordably. They run a buttload better than the traxxas throwaways but its still a brushed motor. By the time you buy 3 of these you have a cheap brushless system already paid for. I use 3 as the common denominator because that is how often I see the same guys come in to replace the same motor after melting it down before they order a brushless system

Todd