RC10 CE updates

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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by NomadRacer »

It can't be said any better than jwscab. If you do it that way, never have a problem with shorting a critical/expensive component.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

jwscab wrote: Wed Jun 20, 2018 2:25 pm ...and as a plus, if you wanted to run a motor test, you can plug it directly into a pack.
So I can just plug a motor directly into a battery? Brushed & brushless?

Thanks for the info. Makes sense and helpful.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by jwscab »

not brushless. DC brushed, yes. Only two wires. brushless is three wires

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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

So i took the wheels off this thing and did a little light cleaning. Looks like this one still has bushings, at least thats what it looks like in the pic right? Well the bearing conversion kit has like 16 of em for the car. ive found where 4 go on the front wheels (1 inside & 1 outside of each wheel) but i thought id need 4 more on the rear wheels. well when i took off the rear wheels I didnt find the bushings. Looks like the rear wheels just fit in a groove on the axle. Any one care to help educate me on this? surely I need 2 per wheel on the rear as well right? that would be 8 total for front and back wheels. where do the other 8 go? transmission surely, what about steering?


I also took one front shock off to try and clean/rebuild it. i was surprised it actually had a good amount of oil still in it after 28 years. Can someone tell me how to get the bottom of the piston out to full disassemble? I've got new o-rings to install also. Another thing, I found 2 additional sets of shocks. I have a gold, silver and green set of shocks for this car. Anyone know what the differences are? green seems softs, gold and silver are stiffer but I cant tell which is stiffest.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by XLR8 »

You'll need to pull that roll pin to remove the axle and its bushings. Gold springs are stiffer than silver. To remove the piston, you'll need to remove the bottom shock eye (use pliers with a paper towel or a strip of cardboard or something soft to protect the shock shaft). The piston is captured between two E-clips.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by NomadRacer »

It would really help you out if you go to Associated's website and download the manual. I even have them on my phone so I can always get a part number quick like :wink:
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

You guys and this site are a wealth of information. I’ve never been one for reading instructions but I think your right nomad, the manual would serve me well. I think I’m going to do that.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by jwscab »

there are some nuances to building these that you really need to see the manual for. some things look like they go together one way, but it's probably the wrong way, so follow Nomad's advice. Read the manual, and scour associated's website for part numbers and info.

they have a spring chart for front and rear buggy springs as well as a tuning kit.

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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

jwscab wrote: Thu Jun 21, 2018 12:58 pm there are some nuances to building these that you really need to see the manual for. some things look like they go together one way, but it's probably the wrong way, so follow Nomad's advice. Read the manual, and scour associated's website for part numbers and info.

they have a spring chart for front and rear buggy springs as well as a tuning kit.

Did a quick search of tuning kits. Looks like it only includes a variety of springs. Is that correct? Kinda surprised I didn’t find something that would include shock rebuild parts, shock oil, grease etc.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by XLR8 »

The only consumable item in the shocks (apart from fluid) are the o-rings. There's no need to buy a "kit", all you need are o-rings.
For fluid and springs, this will depend upon your track surface. The standard kit fluid and springs is a good place to start. My track is pretty tame so I like black springs and 20wt in the rear and silvers and 40wt up front. This and some sticky rear tires provides ample understeer to match my slow (old guy) reflexes.
I believe the only part that requires grease is the diff and it uses a special lubricant formulated specifically for this purpose. You should avoid using grease or oil on suspension pivot parts as it will attract dirt and cause these parts to fail. I use automotive 10w40 in an old Trinity bearing oiler to maintain my bearings. Just a drop or two is sufficient.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

Okay first shock is apart. What’s the best way to clean everything, esp the shock body? Simple green soak everything?

Figured I start with one in case I mess up. Also I can look at other side for reassembly.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by XLR8 »

dish soap and hot water.
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by jwscab »

NO simple green on the shock body!!!!!

As mentioned, dish soap and water

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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by sbednara »

k. hot bath it is. Why is it no simple green? bad for anodized aluminum?

Here's a few other parts I have. Not sure what they are. appears to be extra parts from the original build. labeled bag 6-6. any ideas? also have this differential grease and shock oil....from the original build. not sure i'll use it but its prob fine. also have the KC lights, but what are the other parts in that pic? do those go on the wheels?
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Re: RC10 CE updates

Post by radioactivity »

They look like servo mounts to me.

Chuck
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