RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I got an RC10 CE B stamp when I was 8 (~1992) and drove it like crazy. Nowak ESC, 1500MaH batteries, 15 min charger. It has a Stealth Transmission.

I read the stickyed thread, though many links are 404 due to age. I was hoping you guys who know about the modern electronics can confirm my build (based on what I read in that thread) or offer up a better one. I'm not looking to race, but I do want to get the best bang for my buck, have it be fast or faster than it was, and if the batteries lasted longer that would be cool too. I may add some weight to it as I was thinking about getting some of the trick machined aluminum pieces available for it. Anyway, here is what I was thinking:

Motor and ESC:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-trackstar-waterproof-1-10-brushless-power-system-4000kv-80a.html

Battery:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-5000mah-2s1p-20c-hardcase-pack-roar-approved.html

Charger:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/imax-b6ac-v2-professional-balance-charger-discharger.html

Controller/Reciever:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-tgy-i6-afhds-transmitter-and-6ch-receiver-mode-2.html

And I have some old Futaba servos that should work unless there is some reason they wont. Thanks for any help or advice you can give!

I have had good success with the cheap brushless setups although I haven't tried this one. It's going to be ridiculously overpowered compared to any brushed setup you ever ran. The cheaper sensorless motor/esc's tend to cog sometimes from a dead stop or at low speeds and can be annoying at times. Some do it alot, some little to none. You just don't know until you try it. Another option in a similar price range is the Hobbywing justock esc. It is a sensored esc and is pretty much bulletproof down to around an 8.5t motor. You can run sensored or sensorless motors with it. They run about $50. From there you can run pretty much whatever motor you want within reason. $20-$100 motors, sensored or sensorless, mild to wild, you get the idea.
As far as batteries go, look at "shorty" packs. Same power and run time, but much lighter and easier to fit into the old buggys
I believe that radio is for drones and aircraft. Do you prefer the 2 stick style over the pistol grip?

I didn't notice that wasn't a sensored motor, gah. I did want that.

Since I don't care about being stock and might might be on the heavy side, possibly this:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-trackstar-13-5t-sensored-brushless-motor-3040kv-roar-approved.html

With this:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-trackstar-80a-turbo-sensored-brushless-1-12th-1-10th-esc-roar-approved.html

Good call on the battery, would have likely got it and then swore. I can't believe how cheap batteries are now. There are way more expensive batteries, but any reason to get a $50 5000MaH over 3 of these for toy use? (run time, power, etc)
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-2250mah-2s-65-130c-lipo-pack.html

As far as the controller, I guess I'm indifferent. I've used both. I was reading and someone said everyone at their local track used sticks so I figured there was a control/reason for that?

I've been running these for a while and never regretted it. I race them, bash them, throw them in my crawler---everything. They fit everything. If you plan on ever buying anything newer for a vehicle, I would consider this style of bat. My B6 and my Vaterra crawler only fit this style.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-2s-shorty-lipo-battery-pack-60c-w-4mm-bullet-7.4v-5000mah-ga-b1035/p530207
All things being equal, I always go for more power when it comes to the motor. You can always turn it down.

I ran this motor for a while on the track. Stupid powerful and very smooth with no cogging. I finally destroyed it in a really bad crash and was so happy with it, I bought another one and had the same good results.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Quality-3650-4Poles-5200KV-Brushless-Sensorless-Motor-for-1-10-RC-Car-Boat/253788059588?epid=2018622047&hash=item3b16f277

This is how I have mine setup. One of the advantages of using this configuration is that you have the option of moving your battery forward or back to get your car properly balanced.

the trackstar esc/motor is a great choice.

find a lipo shorty pack in the 4300-4600mAh range for a good balance of weight, size and run time.

don't use that radio, it's not for surface. You want a 2 or 3 channel radio for a stick radio or 2-4 channel for wheel/trigger radio. The gimbals on that 6 channel are up/down-left/right on both sticks. not intuitive to drive a car with since they will move all over the place.

So this just happened...

That will be all kinds of fun.

Got lots of other fun things on the way. Andy's front A arms, a fresh body, shock rebuild kit, SS screws...

I know I've read the answer to both of these somewhere and can't find it. Acetone is good or bad for the anodizing?

I've also lost the dogbones and my CVD's over the last 20 years. What are the proper ones to get? And 3/16" axles? Is that why I have 1 piece wheels?

BooGTS wrote: ↑Mon Oct 01, 2018 8:54 pm Got lots of other fun things on the way. Andy's front A arms, a fresh body, shock rebuild kit, SS screws...

I know I've read the answer to both of these somewhere and can't find it. Acetone is good or bad for the anodizing?

I've also lost the dogbones and my CVD's over the last 20 years. What are the proper ones to get? And 3/16" axles? Is that why I have 1 piece wheels?

I can't comment on acetone but I recall that Simple Green and paint stripper are harmful to anodizing. I've used lacquer thinner to clean anodized parts before with no harmful affects. I tend to use lacquer thinner as a degreaser because it seems to be a more aggressive solvent than acetone.
CE's originally came with 1/4" axles (either dog bones or universals will work). AE still sells CVA's in 1/4" but the bones are made too short to permit full droop so I can't recommend them. For my runners with 1/4" axles, I've gone back to dog bones to regain full suspension travel. Changing to 3/16" CVA's may require bearing and hub carrier changes. These also have short bones but at least you can move the included large blue washer inboard to regain some suspension droop. There are threads posted elsewhere on this site where this is discussed at length.
CE's came with 3-piece wheels but 1-piece wheels were also made by AE and others for 1/4" and, more recently, for 3/16" axles. You'll want to measure the ID of your bushings or bearings to confirm the axle size. Hope this helps.

Acetone as a 'cleaning" solvent...

I think that's a bit harsh, especially if your not wearing gloves. I use Denatured Alcohol to clean everything. It removes old servo tape gunk and does not harm Lexan.Try cleaning a body with Acetone!

Acetone won't harm the anodizing but you really only need it if you aren't removing ca/crazy glue and/or servo tape or sticker residue.

I use these in this order:
Dish soap- most dirt dust and oils
Simple green( all non aluminum)- dried greasy cruchy oily dirt and rust
Isopropyl alcohol- sticker adhesive, some greases
Wd40- Tamiya greases, sticker adhesive
Acetone- ca crazy glue, sticker residue.

Thanks for the tips on cleaning! I'll post some pics (because I know those are more fun) soon. I may try a little of the HP/UVA light whitening too.

Well, I took what was here and did some research and hopefully I got the right stuff to put 3/16 CVA's in. I'll let you guys know in a week or two. Got some titanium turnbuckles too because I have no self control apparently.

edit: so here's where I'm at, ha. White parts to be cleaned/maybe whitened, shocks being torn down (one was empty...) tub ready to be de-taped.