RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

New to the site but have been casually building RC for years but didn’t get into RC10s til the rere worlds came out. Had a great time running it and total sellers remorse when I had to get rid of it.

That being said this past week I picked up a 10t B stamp that’s id like to run a castle sidewinder 5700kv combo in. Started doing my research and have a growing parts list but I occasionally tend to jump the gun and buy parts that later I don’t need or they aren’t quite the right fit. With this project I’d like to do things differently if I can. Haha

So far new front 3 piece tires and wheels, MiP cvd universals (which may not fit) fomo buy and a few parts for a diff rebuild.

But before I buy anything else I’d like your help and knowledge to confirm if this is a true 7011 which I think it is and what other parts may be out of whack besides the front hubs and shocks.

I’ll post up my parts upgrade wish list to make sure I’m on track.

Thanks in advance.

Pictures fixed sorry for the size.

this is the beginning of the parts list.

Lunsford Hinge Pins and turn buckles
KNK hardware
A&L steering
Full bearing replacement. Best vendor that doesn't break the bank?
Jconcepts front and rear shock towers
Jconcepts tranny brace
3/16 CVA rear conversions (spare parts) what else would be needed to complete for entire truck?
Street tires and Rims - recommendation?
think that's it for now but open to advice.

Best and affordable bearing source, AVID https://www.avidrc.com/

Thanks for the comp, assuming the worlds car bearings would fit the T. If not what model is comparable?

If you are going to use that Castle 5700kv set up, upgrade the trans slipper and top shaft to the B4/T4. I have the same in my 10T, it will perform much better than the original.
Fast Eddy is another good bearing source. https://www.fasteddybearings.com/

That’s great advice on the slipper. seems there are 2 slipper setups the VTS and what looks like standard. I’m guessing your refereeing to the VTS upgrade. What other upgrades can you take from the T4 build? Would the axles convert for a 3/16” change out?

the castle combo was meant a racing clod buster setup but never made it in. Instead it was put into a Lunchbox for some hard core bashing. Then swapped into a hopped up Tt02 rally build where it’s way overkill for such a light car. Hoping it will find a home in the 10t.

I’ve used fast eddy in most of my restos I’ll give them another look for pics comparision.

Should I look at swapping the tranny bearings with ceramic?

You are correct, there are two slippers, the VTS and the V2. I have only used the V2, maybe others can chime in if the VTS is better for you. Not sure about other direct swap T4 parts.

you are going to need new rear wheels also if you drop to the 3/16" cvd axles.

if you are dropping in a castle brushless system I wouldn't worry about the red c-hubs up front until you Need to replace them.

You have some nice kyosho gold shocks so those will do good but if you are going for speed runs on the street you'll need to either put limiters in them or alot stiffer springs.

just my $.02

Todd

Thanks Todd, your .02 is greatly appreciated. If I was going to replace the shock with FT what would be the best option to go with OG or updated?
Not ready to swap to 3/16 but having some challenges identifying parts. Any help is greatly appreciated.
JConcepts body arrived realized the rear mount is buggy not truck anyone have a line on part 7323 or something similar.

Nice 10T

The kyosho shocks are just as good if in good shape if not better than the original AE's (yes, I'm gonna get flamed for that ) So I wouldn't swap them unless you are desperately willing to go back to stock configuration. As Todd mentionned though, for bashing on the driveway, you want to disassemble them and limit their upward travel by placing washers under the piston inside the shock, so that your car doesn't float around too much. So go internal shims and stiffer springs as mentioned by Todd, rather than changing to AE shocks which will require the same internal shims and stiffer springs anyway.

I don't want to sound like a naysayer but I think a 5700kv castle combo is too much motor for a 10T basher... It will be fast, meaning if you touch something you are more likely to break parts, which is never a good thing on a vintage car with a scarce parts supply. The transmission will withstand it if setup right, but if you are not so versed into building ball diffs the "right" way, you have a much higher likelihood of havings things go wrong. The B4 topshaft suggestion above allows you to use a multi disc slipper, not necessarily a VTS - compared to the single disc slipper that was stock and worked very well on the stealth transmission in the 90's, but again with motors somewhat milder than a 5700kv brushless. The diff will still see an immense amount of stress and require regular rebuilds. So, stepping down a bit motor-wise could also save you some bucks in transmission upgrade/maintenance. I'm not even getting into tire wear

Keep in mind that although being the best car of the 80's/90's, this is still a car that was designed in that era, where 5700kv brushless did not exist, and only the top guns could run top-of-the line motors that barely came close to this. And these guys had a lot of time to do RC, and a lot of maintenance time and budget was spend doing so...

Will you run this Onyx NiMH pack? at least this would nicely limit the performance of the 5700kv

Best,
Paul

Thanks Paul,
Idea was the onyx 1800 nicd and a couple solar panels mounted to the body. Was hoping for some charge on the go capability.

As expected the mip cvd are for an 10 not a 10t

Those are associated Universal's

After some thought and looking at Castle ESc combos I’m going to swap out the sensorless 5700 for something else. Not looking to go beyond 2s lipo and with Novak going out of business (Rip) I’m not sure where to turn for a waterproof combo that won’t get boring after a few runs.

Anyone have a Recs on ESC combo and speeds. Thinking maybe a 10.5 turn set up. Thanks in advance

Smart move. 10.5T is perfect for the 10T (I have one in mine )

Get yourself any of the Hobbywing V2.1 clones, I like this one but there are many on the market:

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingr-x-car-120a-brushless-car-esc-sensored-sensorless.html

and pretty much any 10.5T will do.