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Hi. As i had mentioned in the welcome forum, I decided to purchase two new, never run, assembled RC10's from a local hobby shop. I'm quite exited to have them.

Car 1: RC10 Championship Edition with Stealth transmission
Reedy Mr Outlaw motor
All white (slightly yellowed in fact) plastic parts. Shock caps are black though.
Box, manuals, decals, unopened tools-parts-oils-greases bag.
Uncut clear body and wing.

Car 2: RC10 Team Car also with Stealth transmission
Reedy Force II motor
All white (slightly yellowed) plastic parts
Tools, manuals and decals, etc. No oil or greases.
I chose to take this one with a painted body, since I figured I'd never manage to paint one that well myself.
This car also has a Futaba T2PH AM radio set installed with an MC230CR ESC.
The guy at the shop threw in a generic NiMH six cell battery, so this car is RTR.

The manual mentions a driver figure insert, but neither came with one. On the other hand I see what seems to be plastic head lights and hub nuts which I thought were from the previous RC10 editions. There's nowhere to fit these on my cars I think.

The pans have a few scuffs, blemishes and small scratches (as can be seen in the last photo) which I believe are down to sloppy work and handling at the shop. They told me they had to build all the models because customers didn't want to do it themselves. That kills half the fun. Anyway, it's not a wonder they now sell only Traxxas fully assembled RTR kits.

Before moving on to the pics, a question: I plan on running the team car (first I'm going to tear it down and rebuild it). Which of the two motors would you suggest using in it, Outlaw, or Force II? Would there even be a difference.

Thanks for looking. Here are some pics...

pretty awesome haul there. I'd suggest getting some chassis tape/shields to put on the bottoms while they are still nice. They can get run pretty decently and still come away fairly clean if you do so.

i don't think it will matter much which motor you run, the force 2 would probably be quicker, I'm not sure how much timing the outlaw has......

the champ car probably has bushings? I'd upgrade it to bearings, avidrc sells them for a buck each. they also offer a kit which might be complete, but you might need 5/16" flanged bearings for the front wheels(they offer worlds and I think a classic set of bearings).

I can't think. I'm speechless. this is like, THE barn find...

congrats

I wouldn't run them

Thanks for commenting. I really want to run one. Don't really have anything else to run since the engine in my Stinger has no compression left in it. I could also buy the other two cars they still have at the shop and run those! Start my own vintage RC10 four-car racing league.

Not sure if I'll be able to get chassis shields for them locally, and ordering stuff from abroad is a pain here. I could improvise with some transparent adhesive vinyl maybe. There are no other spares left in the store other than suspension arms, rear hub carriers, and bearing kits. But at US$96 for the bearing set I think I'll just keep the Championship Edition as a shelf queen and run the other which does have ball bearings. Not a single other Associated car part on the market here.
No tire replacements either.

WOW!!

*ahem* Okay, I guess if it were mine and I couldn't find a proper chassis protector sheet, I'd apply multiple layers of the wide heavy clear packing tape. I think that should do the job. Then go out and have some fun.

The Stinger will have compression after u repinch it, dont run those cars, u will cut the value in half

You stumbled onto an excellent find. In the end you’ll regret running either of them. There is plenty of used chassis out there for fairly cheap you could run. If they were mine I’d rebuild them using the techniques discussed in the forums

Bakauata wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2019 6:42 pm Thanks for commenting. I really want to run one. Don't really have anything else to run since the engine in my Stinger has no compression left in it. I could also buy the other two cars they still have at the shop and run those! Start my own vintage RC10 four-car racing league.

Not sure if I'll be able to get chassis shields for them locally, and ordering stuff from abroad is a pain here. I could improvise with some transparent adhesive vinyl maybe. There are no other spares left in the store other than suspension arms, rear hub carriers, and bearing kits. But at US$96 for the bearing set I think I'll just keep the Championship Edition as a shelf queen and run the other which does have ball bearings. Not a single other Associated car part on the market here.
No tire replacements either.

Yes you should buy the 2 others as well, you could on sell them I’m certain

Where are you located?

Unfortunately, where I live (in Buenos Aires) there are very very (let me repeat: VERY) few used vintage RC cars on sale. Purchasing off ebay (if they ship down here) implies a very expensive shipping cost, a 50% import fee, and a huge hassle to get things out of customs. Yeah, don't ask...
Same goes for spare parts. So if I did purchase a car from a seller abroad, it would have to be in perfect working order.
Either way, I have been following listings on ebay, and many cars in working condition seem to go for about US$150 to US200 (and up). Add another US$50 shipping (minimum I recon) and US$75 - US$100 import duty, and I am looking at a US$300 - US$400 car.
I payed US150 for the RC10CE with motor but no electronics, and US$300 for the Team Car with motor, radio, battery, and ESC at the store. Both NOS in box. It's really a very rare occurrence here, because old stock is usually sold at current prices (which is twice the price of the same item in the US). This shop owner obviously feels these are difficult to sell items and is not considering their vintage or collectable value at all.
I may try and haggle for the other two he has since I took the nicer two all ready. The body on one of the remaining cars is in regular shape, and the other has no motor. Shame I'm short on cash.
Lastly, I'm not sure how much these cars would fetch on our local auction site, and I'm reluctant to list one in case the shop owner sees what I'm asking and raises the price on the other two. Maybe I'm over-thinking things, but it is a small world here. I'm even worried someone might read this and run over and snatch up the other cars at the store!

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:48 am Where are you located?

Buenos Aires, Argentina. Just posted regarding that. I'll update my profile.

Ah I see. Yeah you have that additional hurdle for sure. If you like the vintage stuff, I would certainly pick up the other cars while you still have the chance.

Good luck!!

Bakauata wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2019 8:47 am

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Mar 13, 2019 7:48 am Where are you located?

Buenos Aires, Argentina. Just posted regarding that. I'll update my profile.

Big fan of that Technic 854 gokart too

tamiya wrote: ↑Tue Mar 19, 2019 8:30 am Big fan of that Technic 854 gokart too

Yeah, I’m really happy to have it compete now. I had long lost many of the steering swivel plates, the seat hinge plate, several yellow parts, most of the black slope parts that make up the top of the seat and a few others. Well,
I came across the box with 50% of the parts on the local auction site and took a chance. Amazingly, all my missing parts where in the box.
I also really wanted an old LEGO box to show how legos used to come. The only other surviving box I have is a motor gear reduction kit which goes we’re nicely with this one.
Now I have to see if I still have all the pieces to 8860 Car Chassis!