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is there some kind of friggin trick to get these smooth? i've had mine apart and together at least 20 times and it still feels like crap. and yes, everything is clean and lubed.

LMAO!!!! They were tough... all that metal on metal. I'd say try running the "diff ring" sides over fine grit sandpaper in a circular motion until the scuffs cover the entire contact area. Don't worry about the scuffs... they'll actually feel smooth when its all built.

There are no diff rings on a gear diff.


I ran mine with a thin silicone lube in the gears—not much, just enough to get the little spider gears coated. Today, you could probably use a few drops of a 5,000 wt. 1/8th silicone gear lube.

When they do break in, they are as smooth as butter. I would break mine in using a hand drill... a minute or two in each direction, back and forth. They break in pretty quickly. Once they get run in a car, they spin forever.

LMAO! Ya i totally missed that whole gear part. LOL

What Eau Rouge said!

i'll try the trick with the drill, but i don't think it's a problem with the gears. when everything is assembled in the main housing, it spins pretty nice and free. as soon as you attempt to put the diff housing on, it's as if the holes where the pins should line up might be off the slightest bit, and it squeezes two of the idler gears together. it's gets very tight, almost to the point of not being able to turn it.

well, i'll mess around with it some more and see what happens. i'll also try to lightly sand the diff rings like erich mentioned.

scr8p wrote:i'll try the trick with the drill, but i don't think it's a problem with the gears. when everything is assembled in the main housing, it spins pretty nice and free. as soon as you attempt to put the diff housing on, it's as if the holes where the pins should line up might be off the slightest bit, and it squeezes two of the idler gears together. it's gets very tight, almost to the point of not being able to turn it.

well, i'll mess around with it some more and see what happens. i'll also try to lightly sand the diff rings like erich mentioned.

Hmmm... does it do that when the pins are removed, too? Try removing one pin at a time and assembling it.

i'll try that and see what happens.

well, i played around with it a bit. i'm not exactly sure how i did it, but it seems to be much better now. a little bit more time hooked up to my drill press, and i think it'll be just fine.

BTW as that seems to be getting sorted, can I ask if anyone remembers who posted a picture of the geared diff. slipper topshaft?

They were selling it I think. I am missing some bits and have finally got round to making the extra washers, slipper pads, etc I need and I can't find the pic.

I have the manual scans from the scans section but can't find the pic which is better detail (I could have sworn I saved it on my pc at the time but nope)...

Best way to run them in is with "TOOTHPASTE"....there is a nice gentle abrasive in toothpaste.......

Build the diff using toothpaste as grease - and then run it using a drill on one side - making the gears rotate and grind themselves in gently - usually takes 10 minutes or so .

This is NOT a joke! Used this method for many years.

As far as the gearbox casing clamping on the gears goes - sand off some material off each side of the gears - probably only need a thousandth or so off each side......just a thought.

Cheers

Darryn