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I just dug up my RC10 #6011 from my parent's house. I haven't found a battery that fits the transverse battery cup holders. Does anyone have suggestions on what to use in these models?

I also need a new battery slant holder and door for the futaba controller. Hope the car still works. Didn't have any issues about 10 years ago.

Hello there whyme

I am guessing you are looking at the measurement on NiMh 6 cell packs.
The nickel metal hydride (NiMh) 6 cell packs are longer than the older NiCads were.
Haven't seen NiCad packs for a while, but that doesn't mean they don't exist. I just don"t now where
Loose subC NiCads can still be found on Ebay and Amazon and elsewhere. You would need to solder the tabs on, shrink wrap it and wire it up to the ESC yourself.
One other thought would be to run a NiMh pack front to back.
All that said you could run a Lipo with a brushed ESC. There are a few threads mentioning this on RC10talk. Try a search.
There a few caveats so please read about the Lipo stipulations first.

An older thread...https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=34971
A newer thread...https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=42513&hilit=battery+alarm&start=15
NomadRacer did a lipo upgrade in a awesome Factory Works C2 6-Gear Trailing Arm build in the second thread.
Good luck!

Chuck

If I recall 6 cell NiMh cells are the same size as NiCd, the problem is that most factory packs these days have plastic en caps installed. These make the pack about 1/4” too wide to fit transversely. Cut off the caps and you should be good to go.
I’ll post a picture later.

It fits this is the Overlander 2000mAh NiMH.
The end caps cut off and with blue heat shrink.

If you remove the plastic end caps, just be sure to cover the battery ends so that they don't short out against the chassis.