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Picked up this nice 93 works. I think I can whiten those bulkhead caps and i have a new set of copper springs for it as well.

Nice! Just remember the bulkheads caps are a plastic blend and don't like boiling or acetone

I did not know that so what is the best thing to do with these?

So what is the part number for the black Yokomo battery posts that are like the earlier white versions?

I want to say the peroxide trick does work, but you can't boil them, just soak in clean water after the peroxide treatment. I'm like 95% sure I've seen someone on the boards whiten a set.

can't help with the part number, but there are dyeable ones on shapeways for the battery posts.
https://www.shapeways.com/product/TJZ7WN7RT/yokomo-870c-yz-10-battery-mounts?optionId=41977951&li=marketplace

and bulklhead caps too!
https://www.shapeways.com/product/FMV8JPGER/yokomo-870c-works-rear-cap?optionId=68427743&li=marketplace

don't just go with those links, there are others that have a full set of posts, for example, three regular and one with the antenna holder. those were just the first links I saw.

Yeah I saw the shapeways parts so I might go that route but in the meantime I bought black rc10 body mounts. I will try the peroxide treatment.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2019 7:02 pm Picked up this nice 93 works. I think I can whiten those bulkhead caps and i have a new set of copper springs for it as well.

Hmmm...the battery braces are not the originals; must have been from a '94 or later model. I have a brand new stock '93 and it uses a graphite weave like the chassis and upper deck. My set of copper springs are brand new/never used but the copper has dulled. I tried vinegar/salt/baking soda method but didn't seem to make a difference. I've been researching copper cleaners but some of the prices are exorbitant. The car was stored in a controlled environment with low humidity yet still have this issue

Yeah I was thinking of changing out the chassis and topdeck with a fiberlyte setup and I don't really like the look of the 93 rear tower and might go with a 92 style instead but not sure yet.

copper oxodizes pretty quickly. If you want to keep the shiny surface it's best to clear coat. polishing the springs would be tough, and the plating is probably super thin. You might be better off re-plating to get the finish back, although I think it still needs to be polished.

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Oct 23, 2019 12:08 pm copper oxodizes pretty quickly. If you want to keep the shiny surface it's best to clear coat. polishing the springs would be tough, and the plating is probably super thin. You might be better off re-plating to get the finish back, although I think it still needs to be polished.

I was thinking of also trying the Wright's Copper Cream but to your point the plating is so thin it might not matter. Do you know anyone who does copper plating? Looks fairly straightforward from a few Youtube video's like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoCyRQsDNco

But I'm skeptical because nothing ever ends up being as easy as it looks;-)

i think it's supposed to be pretty easy as long as you have the right chemicals. that video link is pretty good.

Yeah that looks pretty simple.

mikea96 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 23, 2019 10:50 am Yeah I was thinking of changing out the chassis and topdeck with a fiberlyte setup and I don't really like the look of the 93 rear tower and might go with a 92 style instead but not sure yet.

Let me know if you decide to sell the chassis/upper/towers.

Thanks

jwscab wrote: ↑Wed Oct 23, 2019 4:06 pm i think it's supposed to be pretty easy as long as you have the right chemicals. that video link is pretty good.

The electrolyte is the variable; can be done with baking soda, vinegar, muriatic acid or the copper sulfate. Not sure what the best option is..

caswell though pricey has a pretty good handle on all things plating etching and anodizing. Their copper plating kit uses a 'flash copper' solution, which you would have to find the msds for, but looking at the picture, it looks like blue liquid, which would be probably aqueous copper sulfate. That's what I would use.