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I recently installed a modest 2S brushless system in to a stealth-equipped RC10 and hoped that the trans could handle it. I think it might if the bearing, gears and even the top shaft wasn't worn. Under full power, it will skip a tooth occasionally. My first thought was that the bearings were too far gone but after replacing them, the top shaft still had too much radial movement. I found that the installed top shaft was worn where the inner races sit. I took a chance on a solid metal topshaft from ebay but only realized, when it arrived, that it was a 64 pitch gear. No problem I thought, just order the other gears in the same pitch,,, but they don't seem to be available. I can find 48 pitch idler and diff gears and I can find(and have one) 64 pitch top gears but I can't seem to find a full set of either pitch.

Looking for sources of new parts. I don't really care if they are 48 or 64 pitch. I understand that the 64 pitch gears are quieter but even the worn 48 pitch gears were quiet enough.

Thorp 64P idler and diff gears rarely surface, and the factory stealth 48P steel topshaft will easily handle a brushless mod motor.

Hi Chaos

Guess I should first ask if you have had the trans apart... And if so...

I could be wrong but a stealth trans "skipping a tooth occasionally" would leave evidence of near catastrophic failure on the face of a gear.
And you said the worn 48 pitch gears were quiet enough.
I would think of either loosening the slipper or tightening the diff.
A diff that is not set properly can "bark".
Lots of references to diff setup here and on AE web site.

Chuck

jcwrks wrote: ↑Thu Dec 19, 2019 3:52 pm Thorp 64P idler and diff gears rarely surface, and the factory stealth 48P steel topshaft will easily handle a brushless mod motor.

But I can't find the factory top shaft either

radioactivity wrote: ↑Thu Dec 19, 2019 5:39 pm Hi Chaos

Guess I should first ask if you have had the trans apart... And if so...

I could be wrong but a stealth trans "skipping a tooth occasionally" would leave evidence of near catastrophic failure on the face of a gear.
And you said the worn 48 pitch gears were quiet enough.
I would think of either loosening the slipper or tightening the diff.
A diff that is not set properly can "bark".
Lots of references to diff setup here and on AE web site.

Chuck

My first problem was way to much loose on the slipper. Tightened that and it either started or continued to slip the diff. Tightened the diff and the the popping(that I assumed was a gear skip) began. Once opened, I did not seen any major gear damage, just what appears to be loose mesh and a lot of movement in the top shaft (which is all metal already). How quiet I claim it to be may needed to be taken with a grain of salt,, I haven't been around many other stealth transmissions to compare. The only other one was a 6 gear trans and I can't remember how it sounded or where it is now.

Just a heads up I run a 4.5 brushless Novak and it’s held up fine even at the drag strip. I run a 5.5 and even a 3.5 with a stealth but in a light car.

I’ve seen a few shafts on eBay shouldn’t be hard to get they don’t command big money yet

The stealth transmission is a gold standard.
It first came out in 1989 (30 years ago!) And is still the same in the current B6.1 and has been copied by every manufacturer.
All that has changed is the gear ratio and the slipper. It can handle any motor a modern car can use, if geared correctly.

There are plenty of top shafts (6571) on eBay, although there are less of the more modern B4 shafts (9601) as used on the ReRe.

Thanks Bluewormx, searching ebay WITH that number 6571 showed three options that seem perfect. I had searched many different wordings but didn't know the part number.

Top shafti is on its way...

Chaos

You may still want to check the diff
With the pinion off the motor (testing the trans only), rotate 1 wheel while holding the other wheel still.
This can give you a reasonable assesment of the diff's status. New rings and balls should be quite smooth. If taken apart, a fingernail dragged across the ring will tell the story.
Hope that shaft helps.

Spank them Rustlers

Chuck

radioactivity wrote: ↑Fri Dec 20, 2019 10:38 am Chaos

You may still want to check the diff
With the pinion off the motor (testing the trans only), rotate 1 wheel while holding the other wheel still.
This can give you a reasonable assesment of the diff's status. New rings and balls should be quite smooth. If taken apart, a fingernail dragged across the ring will tell the story.
Hope that shaft helps.

Spank them Rustlers

Chuck

When I tightened it, I rotated it against itself and would not say that it is/was quite smooth. I would say that it was right in the middle of "butter-smooth" and "no way that will work". But, its also likely tighter than it needs to be. I intend to loosen the slipper enough that I can loosen the diff a little. I am probably going to have to replace the other two gears and will plan to replace the balls and ring if and when that happens.

When considering the other two gears, does a metal top gear, metal diff gear and plastic idler make sense? I don't think I like the idea of metal vs metal and the idler seem to be the cheapest. But I am not sure how to feel about metal balls agains the metal diff gear either. I am thinking that maybe metal top gear is all that is needed. I would happily accept others experience with this, or even opinions.

thanks for the info to this point...

Chaos
I would think, all things considered, that the plastic diff gear is ideal. Ability to absorb some impact, low rotational mass, broad gear face and quiet operation/low friction is quite good.
The idler can be one of two different models depending on the gear case you have. Excellent description here https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=44233&p=502426&hilit=6565+vs+6564#p502426
The 6565 case ( if you have the newer 6564 case) ,the 6580 diff gear, the 6579 diff rings and 6570 idler ( if you have the 6565 case) are all available and reasonable. The 3/32 carbide balls are a little more.

Chuck

If you're still looking for a top shaft, the B4, T4 top shaft will fit the stock case. You'll have to run a modern slipper setup with it.

The top shaft is here and there is very little radial play in the bearings. I am pleased with that. But, as I expected, there is too much wear and backlash in the other two gears to expect things to work(for long anyway).

I see RC10, RC10T and RC10GT gears, are they interchangable?

Mine has the idler gear fixed to the shaft and bearings in the trans housing.

Idler gear you need is part number 6570 and diff gear is 6580.

New gears, new bearings and this thing is silky-smooth. Diff certainly leans toward the butter end of the usability spectrum.

Would be ready to roll if I hadn't decided to improve the front end "a little". That little quickly turned into a lot but I'm getting there.

Nice man almost there.