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I thought I'd start this thread to show the differences between early to late Coyotes. There was a thread on this but all the pictures are gone. If you have any extra info to add please do so.

First up, suspension arms. Early on the left and later on the right.

Next up, crown gears and pinion.

Believe it or not, there's four different materials used for the crown gears. In the picture is nylon, aluminium, steel and stainless steel.

The pinion here is steel and is grub screwed on. The only other material that I know that SG used was black nylon which slid over the shaft and had two flats molded in to stop it rotating on it's shaft. It was also known to be a major headache and was quickly replaced by the steel pinion. I don't have a nylon pinion so there's none in the photo.

The chassis. Early chassis' had a long slot in the side of them indicated in this photo by the top chassis rail with the red rectangle on it. I haven't got an early one so this will have to do. Later on the bottom.

Diff gears. Early gears were the black nylon variety and were also notorious for self destruction. Later replaced by steel.

Early nip on the left and later steel on the right.

Bulkheads. Early on the left and later on the right.

Upper suspension arms. I don't know if there is early and later with these. In the two wheel drive kits you get a pair of the two different types. If you look closely at the photos you can make out the "R" and "F" on each. The "F" arm is swept back more to increase castor on the two wheel drives. I think the early four wheel drive kits came with four of the same upper arms.

Wow, I never realized there were this many differences. I only knew about the crown (ring) gears, and there being a 2wd and 4wd version. I'm going to have to check mine out to see what it has.

Just to add a little , the top arms also went from M3 turnbuckles to M4 turnbuckles.
Also the early chassis plates have less clearance under the steering linkages, the later ones are cut deeper at this point, an odd thing about the early chassis is the slot mentioned earlier has no square cut out to insert or remove the battery holder pieces, the later chassis plates have a square hole at the end so you can slide the battery holder down and out the square hole, I can only guess the early ones had to have the battery holder fitted by bowing out the ally plate, not something I'd want to try on mine.

There is a difference in wheels and axles too. Early had keyed axles and wheels retained by an E-clip. Late used a conventional pin through the axle and nut.

The front steering knuckles got an upgrade too with additional steering limiters and thicker steering arms .
Older version on the left.




There may be a fifth material for the diff crown gear as well , not great pictures but the later plastic gear on the right is more opaque than the original on the left .They feel slightly different as well so I'm fairly sure its not just yellowed with age .

Rear hubs. Early on the left and later on the right. The top arm mount is taller on the newer version.

The boxes themselves. Early (much prettier) on the left and later on the right. Interestingly, both these kits were identical inside. Both had steel gears and all the parts were later versions.

Do the later suspension pivot balls have a built in stand off or are they just spherical? All my early balls have stand offs built in, I fitted later rear hubs without noticing the different top arm mount but there is virtually no clearance to the inner wheel rim and without stand offs it would have good clearance.

Yep, the later ones have the same standoffs. One thing that doesn't help wheel clearance on the rear is the one bearing per wheel. Way too much wobble.

Bottom chassis spacer. The Lexan underguard screws to this piece. I can't tell if the top one is an early version as it came in a later 2WD kit. The bottom one is definitely more common.