RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Posted: **Sun Jun 21, 2020 2:52 pm**

Hey All,

I had this Novak T-1X in my parts and I didn't test it until now. It immediately heated up, on my test rig, along with my test battery. Clearly a short.

I have a "maker" knowledge of FETS. Initially, I wasn't going to bother with this, but I took it apart. One FET looked odd, the case showed an issue, and the solder underneath was too shiny, and solder was also in the bottom of the case.

With the help of solder wick and one of those spring loaded removers, I was able to pull the suspect FET.

The FET has no markings. Clearly sinking FETs, as most of them are.

It now works, as it should, power switch works (didn't before), BEC is at a nice 5v, and now cool to the touch, without trans/road resistance (no heatsinks either).

The brake works too!

My question is, should I bother even replacing the FET, or leave it? ...and call it a win! I'm going to run a standard NiMH pack, with a 20K RPM motor.

Are any of you running these ESCs, with a "tooth" missing?

Thanks!

Posted: **Mon Jun 22, 2020 7:14 am**

80sRunner wrote: ↑Sun Jun 21, 2020 2:52 pm Hey All,

I had this Novak T-1X in my parts and I didn't test it until now. It immediately heated up, on my test rig, along with my test battery. Clearly a short.

I have a "maker" knowledge of FETS. Initially, I wasn't going to bother with this, but I took it apart. One FET looked odd, the case showed an issue, and the solder underneath was too shiny, and solder was also in the bottom of the case.

With the help of solder wick and one of those spring loaded removers, I was able to pull the suspect FET.

The FET has no markings. Clearly sinking FETs, as most of them are.

It now works, as it should, power switch works (didn't before), BEC is at a nice 5v, and now cool to the touch, without trans/road resistance (no heatsinks either).

The brake works too!

My question is, should I bother even replacing the FET, or leave it? ...and call it a win! I'm going to run a standard NiMH pack, with a 20K RPM motor.

Are any of you running these ESCs, with a "tooth" missing?

Thanks!

it now works 11/12th just as well, i guess

good job figuring it out!

Posted: **Mon Jun 22, 2020 8:32 am**

A 5 or 6 fet esc I would tell you to put a replacement in. That T1x already has 6 extra in the case

. So you should be fine.

Posted: **Tue Jun 23, 2020 12:44 pm**

@jwscab

I saw you posted the RFP70N06, as a replacement in this https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?t=34048. I haven't sealed the case yet, but should my OCD kick in, is this a good replacement for this ESC? They are certainly cheap enough.

I've been looking at other posts here, it appears the anti-ringing, gate resistor is 10 ohms, confirm? On this one, they are blue, with no markings, that's what I measure with my meter. I think I saw a T-4 here with the same 10 ohm, but labeled properly (an 805ish SMD with "100"). Do most Novak ESCs use 10 ohm gate resistors?

Thanks!

Posted: **Tue Jun 23, 2020 4:01 pm**

10 ohms is about right. Something less than 100 would be fine. It's hard to say on the fet replacement. Its always best to match the fets as close as possible.

RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Novak T-1X: Removed one FET, now works!

Novak T-1X: Removed one FET, now works!

Re: Novak T-1X: Removed one FET, now works!

Re: Novak T-1X: Removed one FET, now works!

Re: Novak T-1X: Removed one FET, now works!

Re: Novak T-1X: Removed one FET, now works!