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I bought a Tekin Mospower controller ESC From ebay for $25. Not sure if it is the pro or not. I noticed it was modded after I got it. It has what looks like an audio transistor where the LED is supposed to go. Its added onto the ESC pcb and has a hole cut into the plastic to make it fit. Maybe its being used as a schottky diode? Anyone?

I wouldn’t doubt that they blew the bec out of it and used a larger regulator than stock to repair it.

The receiver wires were re-soldered in several places, looks like that might be it. Anyone know if this is the pro version? I have no idea. I’ll post more pictures once its Tested and soldered onto the vintage RC10 buggy

I've just bought one last week , as you can see there's no led initially.
Unfortunately it's out of order (although the seller claimed it was working fine ). I opened the case and noticed that a component looked weird.
Do you think this could be the problem ?

Lizardking wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 3:55 pm The receiver wires were re-soldered in several places, looks like that might be it. Anyone know if this is the pro version? I have no idea. I’ll post more pictures once its Tested and soldered onto the vintage RC10 buggy

It's the Pro version , same as mine.

Mine has that exact same component replaced. Can you post a picture so we can see the numbering?

it seems to broken at the top but i hope that it helps

Can you write here what the numbering is, its a little hard to read.

Lizardking wrote: ↑Mon Sep 28, 2020 4:40 pm Can you write here what the numbering is, its a little hard to read.

Have you clicked on the pic to enlarge ?

Yep

I read - BD43 98431 Can’t find the datasheet. You should take it to a TV repair shop, they should be able to help.

Anyone know what the motor limit is on these?

Took the wires and cut the excess and resoldered directly to the PCB. I eliminated around 8” of thick gage wires and 6” from the receiver wires. Tested and it works great. Now to clean the heatsinks, close the unit and install on the RC10.

Well I tested it on the TC10 and the motor runs when I break and stops when I accelerate. Also, the motor runs backwards. The polarity on the output is correct, positive is positive, etc. I reversed the transmitter channel and the motor doesn’t stop either in break or fwd. Its as if The ESC is picking up the inverse of the TX signal. Changing the polarity on the motor won’t help with the FWD on reverse issue. WTH

Ok figured it out, I had to put the TX ch 2 in Reverse. Then I checked the two pots on the ESC and centered them from their endpoints. After that it was a matter of minor adjustments to the break and throttle pot.