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I scored a couple of very well used Pro 10s nearly two years ago. They'd been converted to nitro, consequently, both the motor mounts were hacked. A lot of the parts are re-useable. I have a few new parts to add to the mix as well.

This will be a shelfer as I have an SG Coyote that I will run. Plus parts for these are like hen's teeth.

This is a link to Dinglem's Coyote build.https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=41313
In it is a lot of info about the Coyote and it's transition into the Pro 10.

First up, the diffs. Before and after shots here. Note the steel gears. Both diffs are now chock full of Tamiya's AW grease.

I will be looking forward to updates to this thread.... (am still waiting to hear back from my Italian model shop guy regarding the motor mount...)

Thanks Martin, hopefully he still has it.

The diffs in their housings. Note the motor mount has been hacked. Thankfully, the bearing housing was untouched. I'll continue with the build and replace the mount when I can. All the driveline bearings have been cleaned out and re-used.

Looking at the stripped down diff photo it looks like yet another slight difference in design , the out drives and sun gears are splined together not like the older versions where they were key'd together .

Absolutely correct, the Pro 10 output shafts are splined while the Coyote has two flats to mate with the sun gears. I haven't included the info in the other thread as I don't know if any Coyotes ever used them. At a guess, once TAG started modifying the chassis they were most likely part of the upgrade.

New chassis rails fitted with upper suspension arm mounts and new steering bellcranks.

New bulkheads, chassis spacers/servo mounts fitted plus the diff housings. The shock towers are from Factory Works and are top notch. I have the originals but they are well past their use by date. The drive shaft linking the front and rear diffs isn't fitted yet.

I gave the shocks a thorough going over with sandpaper and metal polish after de-anodising them. The rears had suffered from years of spring gouging and really needed it. They're not perfect but they look great compared to what they used to look like. Note the brass spring collars. Pretty nifty.

I couldn't help myself, I had to start reassembling the car. The upper and lower suspension arms as well as the bearing carriers are used. The best bits were spiffed up and refitted. Particular attention has to be paid to the suspension pivot balls. All were spun on an M3 screw in a Dremel and polished up. Some had to be sanded first. TAG's machining in this area is a bit lax. There was a difference of up to 0.12mm in diameter between the smallest and largest balls. This is the difference between smooth arm movement or sticking.

Shocks rebuilt and reinstalled. Just a bit of AE's Green Slime on the O rings and a couple of drops of oil in each shock. Enough to dampen the bumpiest shelf.

Looking very nice , what are the additional mount holes in the knuckles for , looks like they could be used with a C hub at the rear maybe ?

Thank you Sir.

They can't be used on this buggy. I thought at first that it might be possible to utilise them for additional castor at either end but it drops the steering ball end too far down for steering duties and increases bump steer dramatically.

I don't know if TAG pilfered them from another model or they were specifically made for the Pro 10. I do know that the model after this one the "Jet" doesn't use them.

1300GT wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 1:25 am Enough to dampen the bumpiest shelf.

Ahem..... I thought you didn't have shelfers

RC10th wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 6:02 am

1300GT wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 1:25 am Enough to dampen the bumpiest shelf.

Ahem..... I thought you didn't have shelfers

I do have one shelfer, this'll make two. Plus I do have a single NIB.

1300GT wrote: ↑Mon Jan 11, 2021 5:35 am Thank you Sir.

They can't be used on this buggy. I thought at first that it might be possible to utilise them for additional castor at either end but it drops the steering ball end too far down for steering duties and increases bump steer dramatically.

I don't know if TAG pilfered them from another model or they were specifically made for the Pro 10. I do know that the model after this one the "Jet" doesn't use them.

Maybe the outer one is for a steering limiter pin ? It does look like you could rotate it 90°axially and there would be a pin mount for a bottom arm and the holes for the steering arm would mount a ball for the top arm , a bit like the yokomo 870c had double duty knuckles.

1300GT wrote: ↑Sat Jan 09, 2021 12:36 am I gave the shocks a thorough going over with sandpaper and metal polish after de-anodising them. The rears had suffered from years of spring gouging and really needed it. They're not perfect but they look great compared to what they used to look like. Note the brass spring collars. Pretty nifty.

Sweet...I do love me some fine-polished shocks!