RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

So I bought this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobbywing-xr10-justock-sensored-brushless-esc-sd-g2.1-motor-combo-13.5t-hwa38020240/p784983

And this:

https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas-ezpeak-3s-completer-pack-dual-multichemistry-battery-charger-tra2990/p474595

based upon a few suggestions, but I think the 3s battery might be overkill (from what I'm reading now).

Is there a way to limit it or should I look at returning the battery/charger and get something else? I was looking at that combo because it seemed simpler to work with.

once you calibrate the esc to your transmitter at 100% throttle you can then back the percentage down to whatever you want until its the power you want. If your racing tho it might be overkill over a 2s

coxbros1 wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:41 am once you calibrate the esc to your transmitter at 100% throttle you can then back the percentage down to whatever you want until its the power you want. If your racing tho it might be overkill over a 2s

I'm not going to be doing any track racing with this. Just mostly on-road and maybe a little off-road.

I'm still new to the brushless ESC. I did vaguely read that you can tune it, to include max reverse, etc. It's good to know.

As for the reduced speed in the ESC, I'm assuming that cutting the speed by say 50% would also extend the battery runtime. I'm assuming the ESC is using type of smart switching.

Per the esc's instructions, it is only rated for 3S and 13.5T in on road applications. A off road buggy would have increased load, and a truck will be even higher.


And IMHO, 3S anything in a earlier RC10 is massive overkill. On top of that, the transmission will probably fail in short order.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 3:53 pm Per the esc's instructions, it is only rated for 3S and 13.5T in on road applications. A off road buggy would have increased load, and a truck will be even higher.


And IMHO, 3S anything in a earlier RC10 is massive overkill. On top of that, the transmission will probably fail in short order.

What I will probably do is just order a couple 2S batteries. I expect that I will use the 3S in another car that I'm eyeballing for later.

Would this be a decent enough battery for this?

https://www.amainhobbies.com/traxxas-2s-power-cell-25c-lipo-battery-w-id-traxxas-connector-7.4v-5800mah-tra2843x/p402514

If your interested in the details we can play the numbers game.

The Hobbywing 13.5 on 3s will be about as fast as the Hobbywing 6.5T on 2s

The 13.5T is rated at 3200Kv and the 6.5T is rated 5120kv, soooo......

If we take 3200kv from the 13.5T and multiply it by 11.1 volts (3s) we get 35,520 RPM.
If we take 5120kv from the 6.5T and multiply it by 7.4 volts (2s) we get 37,888 RPM

Keep in mind that these are just theoretical RPM and the true rpm will be far less, but going by the RPM alone the top speed will roughly be the same.


Fun fact if you didn't know, a fully charged 2s battery is actually 8.4v and dead at 6.4v wheras a fully charged 3s battery is 12.6v and dead at 9.6v.7

Some of my parts came in today, to include the 3S battery. I have ordered a 2S and it should be here in a couple days with similar dimensions. Using the 3S for layout placement, I was wondering what the best way to fit the battery into the chassis. I knew prior to ordering that it would be too wide so I was thinking of cutting the sides down about 10mm x width of the batter + the insert I was going to print, but then when playing around with it I though maybe that might actually cause it to fall out of the conditions were right.

I notice that I can place the battery diagonally with about 5mm+ left on each end. This would allow me to print up a mount for both ends that I can properly secure to the chassis and lock the battery in. The connector wire is above the frame so no rubbing issue. But to achieve this it would have to sit on it's side. I believe it should be fine. I figured I'd ask what other people have done in these types of upgrades.