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Greetings...I have an older RC-10 that I am putting a street car body on.I have figured out all the body mounts and got the new body painted.I need advice/guidance on chrome paint for the bumpers.Anybody got any tips and tricks to get a decent chrome finish?Problem I have found is that chrome spray paint does not really work on the inside of our clear bodies,as the 'base' color is an ugly shade of silver/grey,and the top coat is the shiny chrome..This would be great if I wanted to paint my Toyota,but not so good for the car body.....I have an airless,so I am just looking for a good source for paint that is chrome through and through...thanks in advance....

Its not for lexan, but I've used Tamiya X-11 chrome silver.

It isn't a true chrome but it looks decent on bumpers and roll bars.

juicedcoupe wrote: ↑Mon Mar 01, 2021 9:16 pm Its not for lexan, but I've used Tamiya X-11 chrome silver.

It isn't a true chrome but it looks decent on bumpers and roll bars.

Would this work on the inside of the body? I've tried the chrome on a scrap of lexan, and it looks like crap because the base coat settles and the chrome rises to the surface...only in our case the surface is the inside of the body.... One other thing...Roll Tide!

I've used it inside lexan. It isn't made for lexan but I haven't had any problems.

I do the bumpers or roll bars first, then back it with lexan paint.

Duratrax also makes a metallic silver that looks pretty good, and it's made for lexan. But be damn sure to do light coats.

https://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=45368

The roll bar and back of the Stadium Blitzer is the Duratrax paint.

Does Spaz Stix still make mirror chrome ??
I remember using it like about 15 years ago with amazing results. Both aerosol and bottles for airbrushing from what I remember. I believe it had a black backer as well.

After a quick search, yes it’s still made and available. Most hobby online retailers carry it. If you do end up getting and using it you have to lay it on in many fine light coats, like 8-10 or so. Then back it with a black backer.

The spaz stix chrome is by far the best for a "true chrome" result. Spaz stix paints have the best pigments on the market, but beware, unless it's a shelf queen, the chrome paint will chip and flake right off with any kind of impact. A close second for chrome is Tamiya ps-48 semi-gloss silver anodized aluminum. It's hard to see in these pics, but it is much more reflective and "chrome like" than silver paint. It has to be sprayed with many coats, fully dry and then back with black. It is more like polished aluminum than chrome, but is very durable and you'll never have to worry about it chipping or flaking off.