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So, having acquired a couple of ebay rescues to restore, I have what was described as a Cat, which I assumed was a Cougar, but on more detailed investigation is probably an original Storm?
Ironically, I also acquired what was described as a Storm RTR (did they do that? - it looks possible from a fixed wired motor to MSC), but looks much more like a Cougar spec, possibly a Storm mk2?
I'm guessing given the variances in spec over the years it's probably not worth trying to pin down, so I'm thinking I'll swap over the designations (& bodies) during rebuild.

Hi mate, good to see your projects posted here.

Looking at what you've shown, this is what I'd guess:

Car 1:
Probably began as an original Cougar, judging by the rear bulkhead and possibly the rear hubs (very hard to see if it has the old Cat-style rear hubs, or the later Shotgun hubs the second one has). Rear shock tower is Storm, front is one of the upgrade Storm towers, not the same as the manual, I forget which one (Intermediate, maybe?). Looks to have been something other than a buggy at some stage, judging by the bumper screw holes in the front lower support.

Car 2:
I would guess a Club 10 mk2, judging by the plastic (geared) gearbox, plastic shocks, solid links, RTR MSC and chassis tub with MSC mounting points. Looks to have been the Storm truck version, judging by the front bumper and body mounts.

Due to the longevity of the chassis (from it's earliest use in the TopCat and Cougar, through to the Club 10 and even Nitro 10 range), owners and even the factory would mix and match available parts over time. Certainly makes it harder to build a "by-the-book" project at times, as often Schumacher's instruction manuals were not updated to show new parts.... or they were, but the updated manuals were not necessarily the ones available).

Should be lots of fun to build and run!

Now, where's that Nitro 10???

Alex

Awesome, thanks for the insights.

I'll have to dig out the Nitro 10. It's at the bottom of the pile, and also needs a de-grease. My first love, and nemesis - the engine was always a PITA to get running. Pretty fast when I nailed a sweet spot with it, I think that was with the exhaust off, which was always want to blow.
Of course, it looks pretty much the same, except the IC motor. I think most of the spec similar or identical to the mk2 here with the fixed plastic links.

I do enjoy the build challenge, particularly when things aren't always as clear as they could be. But in particular, the nostalgia of having a mix of metric and imperial parts and measurements...

scarrsticky wrote: ↑Tue Jul 13, 2021 2:32 am But in particular, the nostalgia of having a mix of metric and imperial parts and measurements...

Reminds me of working on American cars from the 80's and 90's. The bodies were all metric and the drivetrains were SAE (mostly).

So the club 10 mk2 is stripped and rebuilt, to be re-purposed as a Cougar instead of a Storm (as the mk1 Cougar had the Storm conversion towers)
Some new tyres, wheels from the Cougar, and added new wing mounts. Will probably upgrade to turnbuckles and Alu shocks.
I'm waiting on painting the new bodies as I have a few to do together.

Also served as a quick testbed for comparing a poor example of a knock-off S3003 servo, against a genuine Futaba item, and also a new Ko Propo item. The differences were staggering, so I'll be junking all those fake S3003's. Buy cheap...

The Cougar mk1 however, was a bit more shabby.

Screw head had broken off the rear diff axle, so that wasn't going anywhere. Had also destroyed the thrust race, missing the disc springs anyway, and split a rear hub. ebay rescue described as "fully operational and functions as intended". Ah well.
Does anyone know if the Top Cat rere parts are interchangeable? I've had a search and think so, but not definitive. And the part numbers don't match. It's also close to the cost of the Top Cat rere pro diff, which should also drop in?

Otherwise coming along nicely

So Top Cat rere diff parts are indeed the same, and the Storm is up an running well.
Had to trim the shock pistons which were sticking in the bodies, but otherwise pretty good, even if short a screw here and there.

I am struggling to source the stick pack battery holders though. Does anyone know of a source of these?
Or throwing them out when switching to Lipo?

And thanks again to Incredible_Serious for manuals.

Since your chassis has edges to positively locate the battery, I'd probably try this.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/puretech-xtreme-double-psa-quick-mount-strap-black-medium-pur022-bk/p-qqqwqzeqlbzxactz

They have been around for decades, so their stuff looks at home in vintage cars.

Glad to hear you rebuilt the diff on this, looks like it has the Schumacher super diff in it with the alloy hex washer carriers, they were an upgraded diff based on the mms diff.

Did the gear box have the mms lay shaft (white nylon) or was it an alloy spur adaptor on the standard lay shaft?

White nylon, seemed to be a bit of weird spur gear connection

Thanks for bringing this up again. I hadn't seen it.

Do you still need a battery holder? No promises, but I seem to think I have one in my spares box. You could also swap the battery to the longitudinal arrangement on the one with plastic links. That would free up one for the other kit.

I got a laugh seeing the "get a grip" decal on the window in one of the earlier photos Schumacher sort of played Tamiya with that one

Very cool kits you have there!

I do as it happens. I can’t get my stick packs under the rear bulkhead, and then share the two straps, and it’s also a little tight to the servo. Assume because sticks have longitudinal cell arrangement v perpendicular.
But I did think of that.
And the moment using Velcro and Velcro straps, which probably holds for all but serious crashes.
I was hoping the rere would rere the spares, but only l’iPod it seems, and new drill points.

But otherwise they’re good. A shock or two still needs tlc, but now playing with ratios and hotter motors, and even had a run at a track.

Still do paint up bodies, so just bashing up the original owners artistic creativity

As another option, consider using standoffs from the chassis. Maybe 3/16" (5mm) OD tubing, mounted to the holes that the battery box attaches to. Then make some straps from Kydex or something.

I used the battery set up from one of the new Cougars (Laydown I think) and existing holes with some standoffs like suggested on my o.g. Cougar build.