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Was working on a MP6 restoration - and some of the black plastic parts are faded etc. What is the easiest way to restore them? I have seen some posts for paint, dyes, silicon, petroleum jelly etc. I am hoping for easy - but would like it to last! Thanks for all your help! Brian

Dying with Rit Dye is the easiest method. You can always dye darker than what you have now. $2 Dye and about 30 minutes on the stovetop.

I believe Rit Dye More has been the dye of choice for most jobs.

Chuck

Rit dye is only for nylon, correct? Well, maybe fiberglass too.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Fri Aug 06, 2021 10:34 pm Rit dye is only for nylon, correct? Well, maybe fiberglass too.

Definately fabric. Nylon and everything else is a bonus use.

EDIT:
Ah, I see your concern now, Frankentruck. Yes, if the parts are not nylon, the dye won't penetrate. I guess folks have also had success dying fiberglass parts although the procedures are a little different. Fiberglass takes a long time to accept the dye.

Here is a link to a "Rit dye and dying nylon" search of the forum:

https://www.rc10talk.com/search.php?keywords=Rit+dye+more+nylon+parts&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=topics&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

I don't know what plastics are used in an MP6, but of there's any faded ABS then I'm thinking that Rit dye wouldn't be the way to go for that.

I think the MP6 has nylon (glass filled) parts? Is there any way to tell if they are plastic or nylon? I imagine plastic will not bend - so suspension parts will probably be nylon. Anything else - I think my wife will kill me if I get black dye everywhere - especially if I have to boil it on the stove!!!! I tend to be a little messy and careless. I think Krylon Fusion spray paint works - but it is for plastic.

If I ever attempted to dye parts, it would be outside or at least in the garage. I bought an electric 'hot plate' off of Amazon for heating nitro engine cases for bearing removal. I'd use that, and a sacrificial pot.

I bought empty steel paint cans so I can store and reuse my leftover dye.

I do it in the kitchen, on a white stove.

Put foil on the counter top and work next to the stove.

Keep a wet towel for cleaning up any splashes.


Remember, you want it hot, not boiling. So splashes should be limited to while handling pieces.

I keep it between 145 and 150 F. My only worry is that dye vapors might color the ceiling so I cover the container with a paper towel while in process.

I do my dying in the two smaller pots of the four piece HFT SS stock pot set that I think is like $25 or $30. The largest one is actually a pretty good size for low country boils. I dye on the kitchen stovetop, and haven't had any issue. I bring the liquid to boil, lower the heat and add parts, simmer for 15-30 minutes until confident in the color. Rinse in SS colander under faucet.

I know there are plastics that don't accept dye well, but I haven't run into them yet. I just did my sprint car wheels last week without issue, and they are modern unknown plastic. Side note on that, RIT Graphite Grey is pretty darn much black.

Thanks for all the help!!!!!! I might try a couple with Krylon paint as well - and see what the difference is. Thanks again. Brian

Well, I would stay away from paint
RC parts have been being Dyed for almost 40 years because it works

OK. Will do. Just noticed a couple other posts used paint. But more used dye. Thanks again Brian.