RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

Hello to all.

I’ve been away from RC for quite some time. My first car was an RC10 that I was lucky enough to get from my folks in around 1991 or 1992.

I never raced the car but growing up in the desert, I had a lot of fun with it right out of my front door.

I don’t have that car anymore, but recently found one down the street listed on Offer up by the original owner.

I paid $175 for the car, controller and a few extra wheel/tires and an old battery charger. It looks pretty much exactly like the car I had when I was a kid. The box looks the same too, so I’m assuming it’s the same model that I had.

According to the guy I bought this car from, he hadn’t driven it in over 25 years. He actually forgot that he still had the car. He’s in the beginning process of doing some construction at his house and he found it while he was cleaning out his garage.

Anyway, long story short. The car still runs! I was amazed. But it needs a new battery. The positive and negative wires are frayed.

Any suggestions on what battery to get would be helpful. Thanks. Vinnie

Sorry about the picture in the middle there. Trying to get used to adding photos. Not very computer or tech savvy. I’m going to try and add a few more photos.

And a few more

Also....how can you tell if the body I am original? There are no markings on it. It looks like there are or were a few companies that made aftermarket bodies for the rc10. Thanks

What a nice looking car!
Welcome.
Since verified that the car is working, if the charger is working as well you can simply get a NiMH battery with a tamiya plug.
It would be something like this one

https://www.amainhobbies.com/onyx-6cell-7.2v-subc-nimh-battery-w-tamiya-connector-3000mah-onxp5311/p-qtaqtsrq6m2xactz

Most of the batteries will cost and perform alike. You can get them from Amazon or anywhere.

There are larger capacity batteries, but you may need more than the 15 minutes on the charger to charge.

Some others can chime in here, but the plastic can dry out over the decades on these cars making them brittle and easier to break. It be worth it to dissemble the car and soak the white plastic parts in water so they get more flexible.

Thank you for the welcome sir.

And thank you for the advice on the battery.

You are right about the brittle plastic. I took a better look at the car and saw that it had a crack on both parts of the steering linkage. I think they are called the servo savers.
My plan is to tear it down and clean it up and replace parts as needed.

What do most guys here do to rusted metal parts? I have a rotary tool that I can use a wire brush with, but I’d like to know what to coat the bare metal with after it’s free of rust.

Thanks!

Those servo savers were extremely prone to cracking and being sloppy. I have several with small cracks.

You can still find aftermarket bellcranks that are a huge improvement. Then use a servo mounted saver.

Welcome, very nice CE you have gotten yourself there.
If you use your phone to take photos to post make sure you rotate your phone sideways so your pics end up being wider then taller. This way when you do post them they will be in the correct orientation. Something I just realized myself more recently.
Have fun looking through all the information on here, you’ll find extremely knowledgeable and helpful people as well. Congratulations on getting your first new to you (Preowned) RC10. More then likely the first of many to come once you spend enough time hanging round here

Hi and welcome i am new here too and i enjoy to be here.
Great guys around in this forum.
Best regards,
Worldsman

Welcome and great car bud.

Hello

What do most guys here do to rusted metal parts? I have a rotary tool that I can use a wire brush with, but I’d like to know what to coat the bare metal with after it’s free of rust.

What I have been doing for all my steel parts is a blackening process that works fairly well.
You will need a heat gun, boiled linseed oil, pliers and a small cup.

1. with the pliers pick up a piece and dip into the linseed oil.
2. heat the part till it just starts to smoke
3. dip the hot part back in the linseed oil
4. repeat as necessary to achieve a nice blackened finish
5. wipe clean
6. lightly oil with motor oil, WD40 or what ever you like/have

Takes a little practice but a heat gun seems to yield better results than an open flame (torch) and won't tend to make the steel loose temper.

Chuck

Looks awesome!