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I've never had a Pan Car but I'm sort of curious and after a little advice from a few of you guys in my Pan curious thread I settled on some (forgotten to me ) middle ground in the form of the Bolink Digger , the Digger was basically a 1/10 Pan car called the Round Tracker that was retro fitted with off road tires , Lexan gear cover and a Lexan radio box .
Crude for sure but in the day of the Tamiya SRB on a smooth track they were quick ! Pretty poor on the rough stuff .
Later Bolink produced the Digger 2 again based on a Pan car chassis called the Invader , a chassis with slightly more advanced suspension.
In between these versions the UK Schumacher team started to go off road with a modified version of the original Digger with a more advanced suspension that's suspiciously similar to the Digger 2 .
So I hear you ask which car am I building ? Well..... none of the above in our discussion in the other thread Jeff with his Factory Works hat on showed me two Digger chassis from his product list , one was the original Digger chassis and the other one that was designed as an upgrade by someone who raced one and had a more advanced suspension much like the Schumacher and Digger 2 and this is the one that caught my eye , so after some discussion with Jeff and a great deal from Factory Works both versions winged there way here to me . Now an RJ Speed axle has arrived and it's time to throw in a few 3d printed parts .

Chassis design credit to Thomas Peter, his take on the Schumacher conversion

A little further , still waiting on post Christmas delivery backlog on parts , all the wheels are 3d printed in polycarbonate to a design by GoMachV for 2.2 wheels . The motor is 12t Team Checkpoint that I got in a lot but was too hot for my other buggy's , I'm hoping it's going to be a good fit in this light weight design though

Super cool build. I don't even know what I'm looking at but I love it, lol. Looking forward to seeing it complete.

Very cool kit!

The gear cover really translated well to 3D printing, possibly an improvement actually. This car is going to fly with that 12T motor

Which body are you thinking?

-Mark

I'm not sure on the body , I have a Ferrari Testarossa body kicking around that came on a PB Mini Mustang of all things , I might use that or I may fit a buggy body , this won't be used off road really so I'm not sure , always wanted a Metro 6R4 body on something so that's in the mix too .
I just fitted an ESC and RX and revved it up , dear god it sounds like a jet turbine
The copper tube I needed to space out inside the grommets in the suspension came today so the suspension arms are all hung propperly now , I'm going to add small coil over shocks to the rear and a shock up front as well .

Instead of the 1060, this seems like a good candidate for a 1080 esc. The extra control from the programmability would probably come in handy.

Again I'm not sure on the electronics I'll use , the 1060 was just sitting there , kind of post Christmas budget limitations right now .

Made a few parts to tidy it up today and fit a shock up front .

That thing is sweet, keep the posts coming.

Now with advanced features like steering , tires and even working suspension with real travel I have some tiny coil over shocks to go at the rear , somehow

Now I have these foam tires and I've never had them before , I'm pretty sure they need glueing but I'm equally sure CA (super glue) is not the way to go , so is there a good glue type to use ?

Carpet tape/ double sided tape without foam works well. Install it on the wheel with the outer protection still on it, install the foam tire, then peel at the protective coating till you can pull it out. Hope that makes sense

Otherwise I’m not positive what glue they use but I would be looking for shoo goo or e6000

Edit- Dan-o-Mite says Elmer’s glue. Seriously. Also says rubber cement does not work well. Too gooey. I read that roofing glue of some sort works but the way they install it requires coating the outer rim and inner tire, setting overnight, and using lacquer thinner to activate them. Probably a no go with printed parts.

Thanks , I've got some Elmer's so I'll give that a try .
Next question , these tires have a 90° shoulder , the road surface and side wall just meet at a hard edge , my mind says that's bad and I would put a radius on the shoulder , this also brings up the question of trueing them , is there an easy way , I mean I have a lath but I've no idea and there might be an easy way ?

Way back when I had an Associated RC300BD and Kyosho Fantom, I would use contact cement to glue foam tyres to rims. Selley's Kwik Grip was used which was applied evenly to the outside of the wheel and the inside of the tyre. After letting the glue cure for a short time mineral turpentine was brushed onto the glue which allowed the wheel to be pushed down into the foam. The turps prevented the contact cement from bonding instantly and gave plenty of time to put the wheel on the car and manoeuvre the tyre into final position. The turps would evaporate and the glue would bond. Removing old foams was easy. All you had to do was soak the wheels in turps or petrol and the glue would soften allowing the tyre to be seperated from the wheel. This was possible as the wheels were nylon. I see your wheels are made of polycarbonate. I don't think they'd like a turps bath.

I would radius the tyres as the sharp edge can catch and tear chunks out of the foam.