RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

I came across an ok deal on this roller and thought it could make a good runner.
. .
After cleaning, dying, outdrive bearing mod, and reassembly it seems to be turning out pretty well.
. .
The tie rods were in terrible condition so I added a set of Lunsford Punsher RC10 Worlds tie rods and RPM ball cups. They look really nice but now I have a binding problem when combining steering and front suspension movement. The bellcrank steering ball cups will hit the shock tower tie rod cups.
. .
This seems like a problem that others might have seen before. My first thought is to consider moving the shock tower ball stud location but am open to suggestions.

Ditch the RPM cups.

Ditch RPS bellcrank for a Houge.

Try low profile ball studs on bellcrank and tower.

...so what you're saying is that I have a perfect collection of multiple incompatible parts?

Those bellcranks are huge. I'd use them on something with a truck nose plate, they have more room.


Maybe something to try. I use this on cars with limited clearance.

It's a Du-Bro 4-40 end, Custom Works 2-56 (drilled out) conical washer, and button head screw.

This particular car has DS bellcranks and bulky Tamiya 5mm balls cups, and it clears. It also helps buggies with thicker shock towers.

Thanks guys for the suggestions. I'm going to start by changing out the shock tower connections to ball links (path of least pain) and go from there.

Any thoughts who made this chassis? Just curious. I wish it didn't have the cell cutouts but I'll find some way to address them, either with a plug plate or under tray.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Mon Jan 03, 2022 8:40 am Any thoughts who made this chassis? Just curious. I wish it didn't have the cell cutouts but I'll find some way to address them, either with a plug plate or under tray.

Most likely Composite Craft, regardless of who it was sold by.

The same body fitment issues should apply.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Mon Jan 03, 2022 8:40 am Thanks guys for the suggestions. I'm going to start by changing out the shock tower connections to ball links (path of least pain) and go from there.

If you have some, swapping the inner ball cups to the small Associated ones will help as well.

I ended up printing a bellcrank with the ball ends for the steering moved back a little. Everything has good clearance now.
. .
Added a servo and connecting linkage. The front end is basically done now.
. .
I think my biggest problem will be coming up with rear wheels to fit the 1/4" rear axles. No rush on that yet though.

The JConcepts Hazzard wheels fit, if you want something in the 1.7 range.

For 2.2 wheels, JC Racing has a couple options but they aren't US based.

Alternatively, you can use the Factory Works hexes and Traxxas E-Revo wheels in the rear.

I don't have any fondness for smaller rim sizes. I'd prefer to stay with 2.2" and I like the Schumacher tires that are availabe in that size. The JC Racing wheels are an interesting option but getting them in the US seems like it might be more hassle than a set of wheels is worth. Amain has a few JC Racing parts, just not the RC10 wheels. I might just convert this to 3/16" rear axles, either with dogbones or Custom Works CVDs. My gold pan 6 gear also has 1/4" rear axles but it has wheels to go with them. Right now I'm too stubborn to convert to hex but I haven't studied the hex rear wheel options yet.

These are the Traxxas rear wheels with Factory Works hexes. The fronts are JConcepts.
They have a more flat face but don't look bad

Everything looks good on that build. That's a nicely done buggy.

I finished the chassis plug plate for the cutouts and pul an 'Egyptian bed' styled battery cradle over it to hold it down.
.

The jc racing wheels are quite nice and shipping was not really an issue.

Electronics have found their places. Just down to choosing wheels and a body now.
.

A couple of the Andy's bodies are supposed to clear. He has them on Ebay from time to time.

I went with a Jammin Jumper on mine. I did have to notch the body a little in the front but it's barely noticeable.