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I've been out of the hobby for over a decade, I'd like to get my Clodbuster going again. Currently it uses a Novak Super Rooseter with two modified motors. I hated the run time it use to have, just a few minutes.

Are there any esc's available that can take dual battery packs and dual motors that are not intended for crawlers?

Hello Bill, I would say hobbywing makes a few also look into onyx and castle creations as well as tekin. Are you running brushed or brushless motors?

I'm currently running some super old brushed Team Orion Method-R's 15x2. They were abused when I last ran this, so I'd be open to new ones, even brushless....

If you want to stay brushed, this HobbyWing 880 Dual will work. Cheap and runs in my Clod fine, although I don't have Mods.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NYBF6MQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The big difference today as opposed to a decade ago is in battery MAH. You can get much longer run times then back then.

I'll check that one out. Yeah I picked up some 4200 mah batteries off Amazon for a cheap price. When I got out of the hobby I was using $100+ team orion 220's

First test run of the clod and wrecked it good. Need a new axle tube among other stuff. Haha. Not much has changed in how I drive! Haha

Like morrisey said, I was also going to mention the Hobbywing 880. I honestly don't think you can beat it for the price, you get a lot of quality for the money. And it's waterproof, has a lot of programming options, high current capability, can use NiMH or Lipo batteries, etc.
Just be careful/mindful with todays high capacity and high discharge rate batteries, especially Lipos. You can very easily, unintentionally put your brushed motor(s) thru a nuclear meltdown. As my brother and I did to a helpless Speed Gems Topaz motor over the weekend.

As above the modern lipo's last way longer so heat builds more in the motors plus they maintain their voltage much better under load so it's very like an 8.4v nicad that lasts for 30+ minutes driving = roasted brushed motor
If you go for brushless in a runner you can often have 40+ min drive times , more time to break the truck instead

Stuff happens when you get carried away putting a whoopin' on your brother's brushless truck with your 4200mah Lipo powered, 30 yr old school 40k rpm brushed motor setup.... oops

This motor was freshly rebuilt with brand new 11x3 armature, bearings, brushes and springs. Freaking thing ripped though for a good 15-20 minutes...

That'll buff out.

Is the armature ok? If you only need an endbell, that motor might be recoverable.

Frankentruck wrote: ↑Tue Apr 12, 2022 1:42 pm That'll buff out.

Is the armature ok? If you only need an endbell, that motor might be recoverable.

Yes sir, it's salvageable except for the endbell and one brush that had a significant piece of real estate removed during the meltdown process. Comm on the brand new armature is a bit on the blueish side now-a-days, but I'll indeed buff that out with the comm lathe and see how goes.

I was/am gonna start a thread with my bro's brushed RC10T4 (which I build, setup & modify) vs my brushless T4.3, which will be updated during the various different brushed and brushless setups in each along the way. Coming soon.

R6cowboy wrote: ↑Tue Apr 12, 2022 3:02 pm
Yes sir, it's salvageable except for the endbell and one brush that had a significant piece of real estate removed during the meltdown process. Comm on the brand new armature is a bit on the blueish side now-a-days, but I'll indeed buff that out with the comm lathe and see how goes.

At least that endbell has removable brush hoods. They can be salvaged as well.

That is one of my favorite things about Epic based motors, the removable hoods. Most of my Yokos and early Trinitys have sweaged spring posts.

After looking at that esc, I think I'll stick to my super rooster and pick up a 8 cell Traxxas 5000 mah battery. I like running my mod motors. I'll have to look around for other options.

After looking at that esc, I think I'll stick to my super rooster and pick up a 8 cell Traxxas 5000 mah battery. I like running my mod motors. I'll have to look around for other options.

Sticking with NiMH battery honestly might be better/safer, even at 8 cell (9.6V), than compared to an evenly matched capacity 5000mAh 2S Lipo (8.4V). I'd assume the NiMH battery would be putting less stress/heat on the system at <50% battery usage.

Not to mention, a Super Rooster has at least a 500% more cooler factor than the HW 880.

Those Super Roosters are lovely ESC , probably the nicest ESC old or new I have for driving feel .