RC10Talk - The Net's Largest Vintage R/C Community

It looks like there were 3 versions of shocks that came with this truck:
Gold - Basis & Sport Kits
Hard anodized, PTFE coated gray - Team & Factory Team Kits
Blue - RTR Kit

Does anyone know if there are differences in these shocks outside of the aesthetic?

Partially answering my own question. Looks like the RTR Rear shocks are a bit smaller at 1.32" vs. 1.39" for the others.

The 1.32 and 1.39 use the same shafts. The 1.39 body is slightly longer.

I use them both interchangeably. I've even used the 1.39 on buggies.

That's very interesting. I didn't know they used 1.32" blue bodies.

jwscab wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 1:15 pm That's very interesting. I didn't know they used 1.32" blue bodies.

I got some dark blue 1.32's, in V1 and V2.

I had some light blue 1.39's, but I stripped and polished them (anno looked bad).

Yeah I have some blue ones also in 1.32. I didn't realize they didn't use 1.39" on this truck for the rtr version.

VTCleitus wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 12:12 pm It looks like there were 3 versions of shocks that came with this truck:
Gold - Basis & Sport Kits
Hard anodized, PTFE coated gray - Team & Factory Team Kits
Blue - RTR Kit

Does anyone know if there are differences in these shocks outside of the aesthetic?

The longer shocks 1.39 were used to eliminate the possibility of the 1.32 shock shafts hitting the top of the shock.
Functionally any of the shocks will work the same as long as like pairs are matched.

the v1 shocks require different internal shock materials from v2. v2 is the modern design that is easier to rebuild. they both use the same gaskets, pistons and shock shafts.

Thanks everyone! You all are a wealth information.

@JosephS and @juicedcoupe : Any tips on rebuilding top loaders without the associated loading tool?

VTCleitus wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 3:26 pm @ JosephS and @ juicedcoupe : Any tips on rebuilding top loaders without the associated loading tool?

Seems like it could be challenging. You could try using a small flat head to dislodge the initial plastic clip in the top loader. you might be able to use a pencil to rebuild the shock bushing and plastics.

VTCleitus wrote: ↑Mon May 09, 2022 3:26 pm @ JosephS and @ juicedcoupe : Any tips on rebuilding top loaders without the associated loading tool?

I've done it with makeshift tools but the correct tool is easier.

If I couldn't find the correct tool, I'd make something.

Yeah probably a small screwdriver with an oversized #4 washer on it would work for installation. Something that allows you to stack the innards yet allow you to pop them into place as well.

A small jewelers flat blade would probably be the best bet to pop the seals out.

I just use a shock shaft with a downstop limiter under the piston and pull it. I'll normally go back with a nut driver or similar tool to make sure it is seated properly.