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After being dormant since the late eighties I've decided to blow life into my old A stamp. I've been thinking of doing this for years, and now I'm posting the build here in the hope it will motivate me to actually get it finished. The goal is to get it back as a runner, and get back the feel of the drive of a pretty standard short arm car, jelly bean wheels and old electronics (except for batteries). The RC10's I've got as runners today are all post A stamp era, and set up for vintage racing. This one is not indtended for vintage racing, just for some recreational driving and bringing back good memories.

I don't know how long a shelf life it had in the shop, but it will have to be a what we now describe as Edinger - it was bought before the Cadillac era. I simply cant remember what parts that has been replaced, but I'm certain it never had the early Edinger rear spring retainers or other early signature parts. The only intriguing thing I'm questioning are the early steering blocks.

It was really battered when it was put in a box and replaced by a Shumacher Topcat. Front shock tower broken, threads for the nose plate stripped, broken body that got binned...

First pictures after clean up.

Here's a short arm car that I recently did, using Factory Works shock towers, and JConcepts wheels and tires.

Thank you for showing a successful rebuild with the JConsepts. I bought some Prolines for the Classic for this purpose long ago, so opting for those so far. Fully understand the more sustainable solution with the JConcepts.

Also fortunate to have some old spares around and a classic shock tower. Aming for gentle use:)

Mounted up the Prolines on the old rims. Also fitted the old scratched bumper that I once put on to protect an already worn nose plate...
So far I will try to solve the problem of stripped threads in the nose plate by using split nuts as shown. Just a mock up so far to see how it works with bell cranks, bumpsteer etc..

LurkingCAT wrote: ↑Mon Apr 10, 2023 8:58 am Thank you for showing a successful rebuild with the JConsepts. I bought some Prolines for the Classic for this purpose long ago, so opting for those so far. Fully understand the more sustainable solution with the JConcepts.

Also fortunate to have some old spares around and a classic shock tower. Aming for gentle use:)

Mounted up the Prolines on the old rims. Also fitted the old scratched bumper that I once put on to protect an already worn nose plate...
So far I will try to solve the problem of stripped threads in the nose plate by using split nuts as shown. Just a mock up so far to see how it works with bell cranks, bumpsteer etc..

You may want to keep those specific pro-lines for the shelf. Even the reproduction proline champion tires are challenging to find and expensive when you do. Tamiya hornet tires are supposed to be able to fit the original rims, are inexpensive and plentiful.

It's a great looking project.

Thank you for the headsup on the Prolines and the tip on Hornet. Crazy how prices have changed the last years.
Even though I regret selling off some of my gear, I'm also happy I got the main bulk of my collection onboard before this heavy raise - now it would have been really hard to prioritize.

JosephS wrote: ↑Mon Apr 10, 2023 1:19 pm Tamiya hornet tires are supposed to be able to fit the original rims, are inexpensive and plentiful.

Just the rears. RC10 and Hornet fronts are different sizes.

LurkingCAT wrote: ↑Mon Apr 10, 2023 1:38 pm Thank you for the headsup on the Prolines and the tip on Hornet. Crazy how prices have changed the last years.
Even though I regret selling off some of my gear, I'm also happy I got the main bulk of my collection onboard before this heavy raise - now it would have been really hard to prioritize.

Some of the wear parts, like decals or tires are just silly. I spend some time thinking about if I should open some of the parts I got for builds or not.

Yes agree, silly is the right word of some of the pricing these days.

Progress: overhaul of gearbox, including renovation of bearings and diff rings. New 1/8 balls and new thrust bearing.
Also replacing worn white idler gears with a set of old black ones, and a set of lightly used axle drive gears/outdrives.
Came out really smooth.

Trying out bell cranks with the cut nuts as shown above, to solve the problem of the stripped threads in the nose plate. Took away some material from the bell cranks to lower the ball ends for the steering rods. Also compensated with 0,75 mm washers under the ball ends on the steering blocks, and the bump steer characteristics is now good.

Rebuilt the shocks, and replaced the broken shock tower up front with a Classic I bought at the time they were available...
Was debating with myself whether I should keep the slender steering blocks or replace them with the more robust ones from the even later Edinger and Cadillac. As you see the slender are on now, but I think they will be swopped. There has to be a limit to how authentic this drive is going be.

Rear also coming to an end